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This route is located in the corridor left of Burning Man. Hands and fingers lead up through the overhanging belly that is followed by a tricky slot with a fixed pin. Cold shuts are located on the first ledge or you can proceed up the OW above that is 5.9 awkward munge to a second rap anchor.
Small cams up to some hands sizes for the initial crack. A quickdraw is useful for a fixed pin in the slot. Bring some big gear for the O.W. above.
Aug 30, 2010
The only thing that keeps this route from getting 4 stars is the ledge in the middle. Excellent, varied climbing on this that will test your all around skills in the mid 10 range. First pitch seemed easier than it looked (though slightly intimidating), second pitch harder than it looked. Second pitch is that 'too big to stack, too small to wing' sort of size and it is steep. Luckily there is the dihedral wall to work with, or this would be another 'big pink' sort of nightmare. You will want big pro for this pitch.
|By Princess Mia|
Jun 29, 2012
Well the old guide book says 5.10c and the new says 5.10d. All I can say it is not 5.10b. And the second pitch is awesome and may look mangy but the climbing is not and it sure isn't 5.9 either. The going rating is 5.10-ish.
|By Wade Griffith|
Mar 19, 2013
Yeah, I admit. The wide bit at the end may have been rated old school Vedauwoo. Remember it being pretty mungy and thought it would be easier when it cleaned up after a few ascents. Scarpelli told me once that they used to rate things low as they could without smiling. When I first met him at the base of Cupcake, I asked what it was rated. He replied it was 5.8 without a smile.