Year of the Dog 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011 |
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Description Yet another fine pitch of climbing on the beautiful big wall section of the 82.
"Year of the Dog" is an alternate 2nd pitch to "Crimp Chimp". Rather than climbing up and slightly left for the 2nd pitch of "Crimp Chimp", move right a few feet to another anchor, then take the plumb line straight up through the depression immediately left of the tall buttress of "Arms Reduction". Sustained slab/face climbing, tricky sequences, and a pumpy, eye-popping finish characterize this route.
Note: Belaying off the slung tree is a better option (less drag/awkwardness) than using the bolts on the slab at the top of the pitch.
Location Above and slightly to the right of the 1st pitch of "Crimp Chimp".
Protection Many QDs and a single rack (including some wires) to a #1 Camalot.
| Comments on Year of the Dog |
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By Matt Salter
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| Excellent independent line. It actually has it's own first pitch, independent of Crimp Chimp:
Start 10 feet right of Crimp Chimp and follow mixed bolts and gear in a direct manner, past a flake and up a thin, steep slab. For a most excellent time, link the two pitches together into one exceptional 140 foot pitch to the top.
Rack: A handful of SLCD's from yellow TCU up to red Camelot, along with a few medium/large stoppers
Descent: 2 one rope rappels |
By Derek Doucet
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c
| Actually, like all of the main face routes, YOD is actually an excellent, long single pitch with a convenient mid point rap anchor to facilitate a single rope rap descent. Why break these routes in to two pitches? Just sayin'! |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jun 18, 2011
| Matt, how difficult would you say the independent first pitch to this route is? |
By Derek Doucet
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c
| The climbing to reach the first anchors is .9+ish, and the crux is a one move wonder. The rest of the climbing is easier, but very worthwhile. There is a brief section of PG/PG13 5.7-5.8 climbing halfway to the midpoint rap anchor, by the way. |
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