Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
82 Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Reduction T 
Block Party T 
Crimp Chimp T 
Dirty Duo, The T 
Kid Charlemagne S 
Politics of Dancing, The S 
Truffle Hog T 
War on Drugs T 
Year of the Dog T 

Year of the Dog 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,001
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures 2016 For access issues: please review cragvt.org MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Yet another fine pitch of climbing on the beautiful big wall section of the 82.

    "Year of the Dog" used to be an alternate second pitch to "Crimp Chimp" but now has it's own first pitch. One of the best climbs in Bolton.

    P1. Start a few yards right of Crimp Chimp on a 5.9 slab leading to fun face climbing and an anchor just right of Crimp Chimp.

    P2. Excellent. Tricky balance and great crimps all the way to the top, ending in a broad corner just left of a steeper face.

    Location 

    20 feet right of "Crimp Chimp."

    Protection 

    Many QDs and a single rack (including some wires) to a #1 Camalot.


    Comments on Year of the Dog Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Matt Salter
    Jun 18, 2011
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Excellent independent line. It actually has it's own first pitch, independent of Crimp Chimp:

    Start 10 feet right of Crimp Chimp and follow mixed bolts and gear in a direct manner, past a flake and up a thin, steep slab. For a most excellent time, link the two pitches together into one exceptional 140 foot pitch to the top.

    Rack: A handful of SLCD's from yellow TCU up to red Camelot, along with a few medium/large stoppers

    Descent: 2 one rope rappels
    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 18, 2011
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Actually, like all of the main face routes, YOD is an excellent, long single pitch with a convenient mid point rap anchor to facilitate a single rope rap descent. Why break these routes in to two pitches? Just sayin'!
    By Chris Duca
    From: Havertown, PA
    Jun 18, 2011

    Matt, how difficult would you say the independent first pitch to this route is?
    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 18, 2011
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    The climbing to reach the first anchors is .9+ish, and the crux is a one move wonder. The rest of the climbing is easier, but very worthwhile. There is a brief section of PG/PG13 5.7-5.8 climbing halfway to the midpoint rap anchor, by the way.

    The Definitive
    Climbing Resource

    Inspiration & Motivation
    to Fuel Your Run

    Next Generation Mountain
    Bike Trail Maps

    Backcountry, Sidecountry
    & Secret Stashes

    Better Data. Better Tools.
    Better Hikes!