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P1 - Climb up the chimney (9-) about 25' to the layback flake. At this point, if you have big gear (#5 and #6 Camalots), do the layback flake (8+). About 20' up the layback, you can step left to easier terrain if you choose to (we did - but Gillett suggests continuing up the layback). If you do not have big gear, then consider this part at least R-rated. Alternatively, from the belay, take the corner just left of the chimney flake instead (5.7). It joins the normal pitch at a slot that is easily climbed to a nice belay ledge. 60'
P2 - Climb the thin, left-trending crack (9+) just above the belay which will lead to a right-facing corner. Up this easy corner and the easy cracks/face above till you are below another a corner that is capped by a small roof. Awkwardly jam pass the roof (9-) to gain easier terrain once again. Continue to the summit, 120'.
Descent: Rappel from chains found 25' SW of the belay to mid-station rappel point. Recommend 70m for the rap. Gillett indicates 60m will barely make the 1st rap.
From the left side of the access ledge, scramble up about 50' on 4th class terrain till the ledge below the left-facing chimney and the yawning flake above it.
Standard rack plus #5 and #6 Camalots.