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Quebrada Llanganuco
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Pisco Normal Route 
Yanapaccha West Face 

Yanapaccha West Face 

Type:  Alpine, 1650', Grade III
Original: Mod. Snow [details]
FA: D. Mackay, H. Tothill 1959
Page Views: 1,800
Submitted By: Evan Sloane on Mar 11, 2009

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Huandoys as seen from Yanapaccha


A great acclimatization route as the altitude is relatively low for the area (5460m) but the route is somewhat technical.

The route begins to the right of a prominent rock buttress that extends a good ways up the face. Scramble up a bit of rock until the bottom of the glacier is gained. Head up the slope (maybe 50 degrees?) for approx. 800' or so to a flat area. From here traverse right through some crevassed territory to where the face steepens towards the summit. Work your way up and right towards a prominent crevasse. Cross this to gain the final headwall. Climb this calf burning headwall for about 160m and head right at the end to the summit.

Descend by either rapping or downclimbing the final headwall. From there retrace your route back down.


From the basecamp near the road take the trail to the right of the river up valley. This leads into a picturesque cirque with waterfalls on all sides. The trail cuts steeply uphill from the head of the valley to the right to gain the upper slopes. A little further along, look for a somewhat faint trail that cuts off right of the main trail just before a spring crosses the trail. If you reach a steep section of main trail that leads to a lake, you've gone a bit too far. Follow the faint trail up and up and right and up again until you near the snows on the ridge connecting to Yanapaccha. There is a great campsite just beyond the stream that marks the end of the uphill march. The moraine camp is about 30-45 min further along, but the great views and easy access to good water make the first campsite hard to pass up. From either the early camp or the moraine camp, traverse right passing the prominent rock rib until spotting a moderate scramble that leads up towards the glacier. Don the crampons here and start the fun.


Alpine axe (a second tool might be nice for the upper headwall). Handful of pickets.

Photos of Yanapaccha West Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Chacaraju while starting up the headwall.
View of Chacaraju while starting up the headwall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Slopes below the headwall
Slopes below the headwall
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the upper headwall
Approaching the upper headwall
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the headwall
Approaching the headwall
Rock Climbing Photo: Yanpccha (on right) as seen from approach to Pisco...
Yanpccha (on right) as seen from approach to Pisco...
Rock Climbing Photo: Feeling a bit worked at the summit
Feeling a bit worked at the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: On the approach to advanced camp
On the approach to advanced camp

Comments on Yanapaccha West Face Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2016

I climbed this route in 1987, possibly it was a bit easier back then. I do remember the headwalls, but they were not very steep. Great views of Chacaraju!

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