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The Barkeater Cliff
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Yakapodu T 

Yakapodu 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Adam Clayman, Jeff Edwards, and Todd McDougall, 6/17/85
Page Views: 1,553
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Oct 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Perfect Fall day, Yakapodu, Barkeaters, Daks.

Description 

I once heard that the route's name is derived from one of the first ascentionists yelping "Yakapodu!!" as they moved deftly through the crux. Whether or not this is truth or fabrication is erroneous...it just adds more lore and an element of question to the first ascent.

This route is tricky, has some pumpy and balancy moves for the grade, and some exquisite positioning on a wide, crack-riddled face. With all of these ducks in a row, it creates a tremendous experience that only the Dacks can offer.

Climb the long, low-angle face with a shallow crack running through it. Step up thoughtfully to the ledge below the steep right-facing corner and put in some pro.

Move up the steep corner with some surprising high-steps, and some "Gotcha!!" hidden hand holds until you can rest on top in some very secure jams. Continue up the featured face, back and forth between some "huggy" cracks, and on to the lower-angled crack climbing above to the nice belay ledge. Build and anchor off a large tree and a Camalot-swallowing crack by the edge of the cliff.

Location 

Beyond the low roof to the right of Fun City is an embankment. "Yakapodu" starts about 3/4 of the way up the embankment at the obvious crack in the slab with the trees and shrubs growing out of the top of it.

Protection 

A nice variety of gear is always welcomed. Include some doubles on mid-size units (purple to red Camalots), plus a good assortment of smaller pieces.


Photos of Yakapodu Slideshow Add Photo
Climber on Yakapodu
Climber on Yakapodu
The top section is super fun. This telephoto shot ...
The top section is super fun. This telephoto shot ...

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By Mike McLean
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Did this over the weekend and it's a fabulous climb. A bit of everything. You can stitch most of the climb so if you like to do that, bring a lot of draws.

No fixed anchors at the top and I found the tree to be somewhat scrawny. A push on it seemed to indicate that this thing ain't going to hold many more climbers (I've been known to be dramatic in some descriptions)

Don't miss this one.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Jul 9, 2012

very nice 5.6 climb. great gear. longish pitch,bring a lot of gear and at least 12 draws or more. nice exposure for 5.6
By aghetie
Aug 1, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great varied climbing, engaging all the way to the top.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A #4 cam was useful at the short off-width section after the initial slab/water crack. Very cool crux move! Sustained 5.6 climbing for about 40 feet. Large variety of climbing in one pitch, all of it quality. Ranks with NCCC and Bozeman's as one of the best 5.6 climbs I've done in the ADKs.

The anchor situation at the top is getting worse. The small pine/spruce at the left side is going to fall off (pushing on it revealed the root system is 'giving'). The other trees are too small or dead, so you have to head back 25 feet to a smaller birch for a solid anchor. This one looks solid and will likely survive regular climbing/top roping. This anchor puts you out of 60m rope range, so you can't be lowered off and need to belay from the top. Also precludes TR'ing with only a 60m (70m should be fine?). Tie knots in those ends!!

The crack at the top of the route accepts #2 and #1 cams. I only had one of each left on my rack and opted for the tree instead. If I had 3 cams a gear anchor would have worked fine. There's literally no other cam sizes that appear to work.
By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
Jul 29, 2013

If you have a #1,2 and 3 camalot you have your gear anchor at the top. I carry two #1s and never had to use my #2 or #3 so it was perfect!

Also, there is a rap tree at the top of this cliff to the climber's right. While the slings may be acceptable, a single rusty 1/4 quick-link is not in my opinion. The walk off is quick and easy so I see no reason to rap on this.
By Gunkiemike
Aug 7, 2013

This gets my vote for best 5.6 pitch in the ADKs.
By J. Serpico
From: Saratoga County, NY
Jul 8, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Very fun and diverse route. Super well protected, especially once off the lower slab. I used doubles and placed 12 pieces (sewn up). The climbing was fairly sustained and never really got easy. Great route. Also, with 60m rope, anchoring back in the trees is fine. 2 4ft slings and a cordellete with a sliding X got me a straight rope path to my position at the edge of the cliff. I redirected off a partial gear anchor at my feet so I wouldn't have to drag the belay through the dirt. Partial anchor was a clear Alien and a large red BD hex, both were bomber.

There is an old rap anchor climbers right and down (diagonal from the top of the climb), but the walkoff is less than 5 minutes (also climbers right).
By ben smith
Sep 16, 2014

With a 60M rope and its anchor extended to the edge, this is a rope stretcher for top-roping. tie knots in the end of your rope