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Yaak Crack S 

Yaak Crack 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle, 1989
Page Views: 9,959
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jan 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (157)
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Yaak crack

Description 

This along with the Gift probably constitute the two most classic sport routes at the Gallery. This one is exceedingly popular, so best to be patient if you plan on giving this one multiple tries.

Fun pumpy climbing follows the crack system, though no actual crack climbing is required. As with the other routes at the Gallery, this one is probably a bit soft compared to similarly graded climbs at, say, Rifle. Classic and awesome climbing, nonetheless.

Protection 

6 bolts


Photos of Yaak Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Dan running a lap to show us some beta.
Dan running a lap to show us some beta.
Josh climbs Yaak Crack with views of the canyons i...
Josh climbs Yaak Crack with views of the canyons i...
Dustin jumps off the top
Dustin jumps off the top
The Yak Crack
The Yak Crack
Chalking up and flagging on the Yaak Crack
Chalking up and flagging on the Yaak Crack
adam strickland giving me a catch.
adam strickland giving me a catch.
neato climb.
neato climb.
Josh Kobobel lay backing on good holds
Josh Kobobel lay backing on good holds
The Gallery
BETA PHOTO: The Gallery
Amy starting up the route.
Amy starting up the route.
Gary Savage on Yaak Crack.
Gary Savage on Yaak Crack.
Mase putting up the Yaak with ease
Mase putting up the Yaak with ease
A beautiful climb on great rock.
A beautiful climb on great rock.
Nicole on Yaak Crack
Nicole on Yaak Crack
Nicole on Yaak Crack
Nicole on Yaak Crack
This is Yaak Crack. Try a hand jam in the crack to...
BETA PHOTO: This is Yaak Crack. Try a hand jam in the crack to...
Nicole on Yaak Crack
Nicole on Yaak Crack
Topping out on Yaak Crack
Topping out on Yaak Crack

Comments on Yaak Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 3, 2012
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A little over a decade ago, in a time when 5.11d was not an on-sight for me or my 5.10-climbing partner, we both got on this climb, and both did it. The grade we agreed upon was lower 5.11. Nice route though.
By Randy
Feb 24, 2004
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Definitely not 11d. A good warm up route for the Gift.
By 10b4me
Aug 15, 2004

Grades schmades. I put my hand in ze crack it feels good. Yes!!!
By Josh Beck
Nov 2, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

More fun than I was expecting and a lot easier as well. Technically I guess it finishes at the anchors to the right of the crack as the anchors to the left are for Minstrel...
By chad wolak
Aug 1, 2006

fun climbing
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 12, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

really fun climb- i'm not an .11 leader on a regular basis and i managed to flash this route- so i'd agree it's not .11+, despite having nothing to compare it to.

that said, it seems like if you can milk the hand jam rest halfway up, it's definitely easier. i watched some folks who avoided it whip higher up from the pump....

have fun!
By Ben Randolph
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 12, 2007

best route at the gallery
By 426
Mar 19, 2007

Yes, classic. I remember this one because right after I onsighted, Bachar soloed "The Gift"...I got two rushes for the price of one.
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Delightfully fun route. No single move is particularly hard; the challenge is dealing with the pump.
By BenL
Feb 27, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

nowhere near 11d...
very good climbing, steep and great holds!
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

i nearly onsighted this...got pumped going to the chains. but none-the-less, it would've been my hardest onsight by far. I'd agree with everyone and say it was more like a super sustained 11b with maybe one C move in there somewhere. But it's hard to tell with overhang like that.
By richard magill
Nov 30, 2009

ridiculously fun!
By JB Smith
Jan 11, 2010

Great bouldery start to jugs, side pulls, a crimp or two, and couple of hand jams topped off with a serious forearm pump. Handren's new guide book gives it 11c and I'd say it's all that and more.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Feb 5, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

5.11a/b
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

On 1/29/11 the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced all 6 protection bolts on this route with 1/2 x 3.5" 5-piece bolts and replaced the anchors with 1/2 x 5" SS 5-piece bolts, and equipped them with mussy hooks.
By Ben May
From: Escondido, CA
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Super Fun! wish it was longer!! Agreed that it should be like an easier 11. The top isn't a gimmee.
By Climber Ryan
From: Redwood City, CA
Dec 3, 2012

Last climb of the day for me. Tough start and progressively gets easier. It has big jugs the whole way.