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Bistec de Biceps 
Cap Rapat 
El Caganer 
La Cara Que No Miente 
Valga'm deu quin Patar  
Ya Os Vale 

Ya Os Vale 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
Page Views: 620
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
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Resting after the intense crux of Ya Os Vale.


Though merely a boulder problem, this is one of the classic power routes of Siurana, and one of the best 7c's period. The wall is basically a pegboard of sinker 2-finger pockets on a 30 degree overhang. The sequence is trivial to decipher from the ground, so tendon strength & attitude are the only barriers to the on sight.

Work up to the horizontal break, then make a long reach to the first pocket. More big reaches between generally great pockets leads to the moment of truth, a desperate stab to a good pocket, with poor feet. Gun for the next break & a great rest. The angle lessens here, as better pockets lead up to the slab. Merge with "Bistec de Biceps" once on the slab and follow it to its anchor.


Immediately left of "Bistec de Biceps", or the second route right of the obvious orange tufa of "La Cara Que No Miente".


~4 Bolts to no anchor, or move right & clip the last bolt of Bistecs de Biceps & lower off the Bistec 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Ya Os Vale Slideshow Add Photo
Ya Os Vale, 'a vista'.
Ya Os Vale, 'a vista'.
Cruising up the mellow finish.
Cruising up the mellow finish.
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