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The beginning is a great sequence of horizontal rails that starts on the right-most beginning of the Y-Right problem, then it veers right to a less-than-useful crack. The final moves overcome the overhanging headwall on sloping crimps and bad rock straight to the very top. The route was fun on toprope (and good anchor building practice), but I'd be scared shitless to do this solo.
On the right side of the Y, ascend straight up to the highest point on the rock.
We toproped it with gear to see if it was doable, and it is.... The chossy rock may or may not clean up, as I don't foresee this route getting much traffic.
|By Chip Phillips|
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 12, 2013
Many years ago, I climbed into and did the same finish a couple times from the right ... let's just say, absent some serious precleaning and some dry-runs on toprope to be sure, I wouldn't do that sans rope again. That rock towards the top is terrible.