Y Crack 

What is the gear beta? Can you get away with a coupla #5 C4s, or is a #6 strictly necessary? I guess I could always do the honorable thing and just attempt it with what I have.

Finally led this thing yesterday, and felt like throwing up at the top. Feels like the definition of 5.9+

I used a #3 big bro at the bottom (not really necessary) and then pushed an old #5 camalot (green) through the wide section until I could get a new #5 (purple) in. I think I used a .75, 2, and 3 for the top section.

Being the follower on Roman's lead, can safely say "better him than me!" Yuck, and it was the second time we'd both climbed that awful crack. Must there be a third? Hell no, and I don't think I'll ever feel like leading it. Roman used a big bro down low, walked a #5, and then #4 with a couple #3's and maybe a smaller one tucked away up top. Hated trying to clean while also trying to stay in the grungy crack.

1 x #2, #3 big bros, and a #5 should protect it to where it thins out for a standard rack. Finished left.

The majority of the climb is actually a lieback on a flake. The flake disappears for 6'ish feet in the middle and it's stiff 10 offwidth. Getting in and coming out of the OW sections are the crux. I climbed it right side in and it was tough. My partner couldn't get up it, and went left side in to much more success.

Big bros? It would be a lot easier to just slide a #6 with you for the first 15 feet before leaving it and placing a #5.

Just TR this thing and enjoy a great lieback. You need some long webbing or cord to set it up. I attempted to solo up to the #5 C4 placement but wigged out on some crumbly rock and decided to downclimb. To place a #6 before the crux I think it would have to get pretty deep meaning a very awkward move to get into it.