Y Crack 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Gene Drake (1975) |
| Submitted By: | Todd Grier on Apr 1, 2007 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Felt like a sustained 5.9, but i loved the climb.
Protection Safe pro, all smaller stuff...nothing big
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 22, 2007
| Not a PG climb, but definitely heads up at the beginning. The climbing isn't hard, but you're up there and committed before you get good pro in. Much better climb than Peruvian Flake, I thought. |
By Osprey
From: ...
Nov 26, 2009
| Do this climb with one 60 m. rope by escaping left (+/-30ft) via rap rings slung around a tree. Two rappel options from the tree: One, rap the 5.3 corner (great beginner pitch) to the ground 45ft. Two, rap the face down and top rope Royal Flush 5.10b/c 100ft. |
By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 12, 2010
| Kind of fun, I did this barefoot years ago. Typical Royal Arches area potato chips for feet on slabby rock. |
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Jan 14, 2012
| This is one of my favorite pitches in the Royal Arches area. Nicely sustained and great friction. If you like finger jamming you'll love it. Close to the trail too. If it had been included in the Supertopo there would be a line-up at the base every day. |
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Mar 2, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| It is in the SuperTopo guide. At least the newer edition :-)
The lower section was mossy last weekend, which made the start a little more exciting. In the lower section I did find a pocket just wide & deep enough to take a #000 C3 as your first piece, about 15' up & about a body length short of a secure stance with better pro. It might have held a short fall.
The 5.3 corner was fun to mess around on & Royal Flush was a great bonus TR. A ginle 60m rope with a rappel to reach those anchors & then the ground works on those climbs. |
By Mareko
From: San Francisco
Apr 8, 2013
| Great climb. First piece 20' off the deck. Once you past the tree its a stellar finger crack. |
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