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Y-Crack Wall
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Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T 

Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl and Rob Lemon
Page Views: 5,005
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 23, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Ryan on old and in the way. photo jb

Description 

As stated in the cliff description, the obvious splitter crack, easy to protect. Strenuous for it's grade.

Protection 

Small wires and friends


Photos of Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) Slideshow Add Photo
Henning Boldt on Y-Crack in Necedah, WI. 21 march ...
Henning Boldt on Y-Crack in Necedah, WI. 21 march ...
Ryan on Y-crack. Photo: Giulia Bartolotta
Ryan on Y-crack. Photo: Giulia Bartolotta
Just past the crux in a comfortable stance.
Just past the crux in a comfortable stance.
Going for the big jugs on top.
Going for the big jugs on top.
Pulling through the lower (easier) crux of the cli...
Pulling through the lower (easier) crux of the cli...
Y-Crack, Necedah, WI.  5.10c.  Takin' no prisoners...
Y-Crack, Necedah, WI. 5.10c. Takin' no prisoners...
Great route with great gear!
Great route with great gear!
May 08
May 08
About 2/3rds of the way up.
BETA PHOTO: About 2/3rds of the way up.

Comments on Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2011
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 23, 2004

first t.r. unknown ,first lead:steve sangdahl and rob lemon
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 6, 2005

aka "Old and in the Way". Do others think the 5.10c rating is accurate? I have always thought it felt more like 5.10d/11a, but maybe that's just me.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 10, 2005

yeah jay,i agree.this always felt harder than 5.10c,perhaps 5.10d/5.11a is more accurate.but then again maybe we are just weak.peace and fuk-nes
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 11, 2005

Steve,I think on lead, with the pump factor, this route is definitely harder than .10c. Maybe on TR, when you don't have to place any pro, the .10c rating is accurate.

Its true, I may be weak, but I know a 5.11 when I see one.
By Nick Adams
From: Delafield, WI
Sep 1, 2005

What's up guys? Just wanted to throw in my bit.

Now, it's important for anyone reading this post to understand that my hardest lead is 5.10b - Watermarks Direct - with a fall, and I've never been to Necedah.

My point is that ratings in WI, no matter where in WI, tend to be stiff. Just plain stiff.

Sometimes 5.8s or 5.9s feel like 11's, depending on the style or moment or attitude. But wouldn't you agree that it is SO SWEET when you go somewhere outside WI - crag or BIG WALL - and get on something that you believe, based on your WI experience, to be at your limit, yet it feels familiar?

That is nice!!

I like the sand-bag-ness of WI because it allows you to go anywhere - and I mean anywhere - and KNOW the level at which you can climb.

That's the beauty of calling a climb like Upper D 5.9(not even +), where I've witnessed "5.10 leaders" hang on gear only 2/3 of the way up.

I STRIVE every day to get better so I can feel cruiser on 5.9 in WI. V3s and V4s rock my world - in WI. In other places, these levels are simple.

Thanks for maintaining this great site - and for letting me rant.

Cheers to stiff ratings and relativity,

Nick
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jul 29, 2006

this was first top-roped in the late 70's by either pete cleveland or ralph schimdt...first lead in 1981 by steve s. and rob lemon. this is an awesome route and one of the best in the midwest..period.
By NiClips
From: Madison, WI
Oct 3, 2006

Just got on this for the first time last Sunday. WATCH OUT! The hornets are C.R.A.Z.Y. this time of year. They warm themselves on the sunny faces during midday. Anyway; awesome route, and way more over-hanging than I had thought looking up from the ground.
By Steve70070
From: Tomah, Wi
Apr 26, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Very awesome route but yes I was there last fall and the hornets were lovin that rock more than me. Gotta love the mosquito heaven on the way up to the rock! Bring bug spray...but the bugs back off when you get to the cliffs and the breeze is blowin.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I am wondering the same thing Jay. I sent Steve a message asking him what his reasoning is.

update: Steve said he must have been tired, took the R rating away and agreed it was a very protectable lead.
By J.Flunker
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

No harder than 10c...
When compared to: "Outer Limits" (10c):Valley; "Lunatic Fringe" (10c):Valley; "Reed's Pinnacle Direct" (10a):Valley; 5.10 pitches on the "Rostrum":Valley; "Illusion Dweller" (10b):J-tree; "Clean and Jerk" (10c):J-tree; "O'kellys Crack" (10d/11a):J-tree; "Split Pillar" pitch (10b) on the "Grand Wall":Squamish. etc...etc...etc...
These are part of the frame of reference for grading 5.10 crack climbs. (Note: All of the above routes are classic and should be climbed at some point in your life)
Overall: Super-fun-classic-route.
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

a must do.
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jul 30, 2011

What exactly should be racked for this?
1-set of stoppers?
Singles/doubles cams? to BD #2 (hands)?
Thanks~
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Aug 13, 2011

At 1st I wondered why everyone placed so much gear on this... Then I climbed it. It's VERY sustained. I don't think you can pack much more 5.10c in a climb. I'm excited to give it another go.