Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route)
||Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Toby Stegman, Jakub Galczynski, Wes Gooch & Toby Grohne - June 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||389|
|Submitted By: ||Toby on Jun 25, 2012|
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BETA PHOTO: Y - Not Wall 5.10+ (Purple)
The Duke's White Heel ...
Fun climbing with great quartz crystals towards the top. Distinct crux about midway, then easing off towards the top. The mid section climbs just right of the bolt line as to keep the fall clean. The rock character is slightly different than the upper buttress making for a nice change of pace. Good route to hit on the walk out. We did a bunch of cleaning on this one and will improve with some traffic. Most likely more routes will be done in this area making it more of a destination.
Lowest rock at the buttress. Skiers right side at the bottom of the Y - Not couloir. When hiking up the trail after the yurt, and the flats beyond it, the trail starts to gradually climb near the creek. Once you cross from the north to south side of the creek keep an eye out for a small cairn not to far up trail. From the small clearing with the cairn you will be able to see the cliff. Cross back over the creek and follow faint game trails to the cliff. See beta photo.
From: Jackson, WY
Dec 6, 2013
There is a 5.8 (crux at bolts 1 - 2) warm up around the corner to the right of this climb (The Duke's White Heel - named after a ski binding found near the top of the route). It was put in last winter/spring. Be careful it is still pretty fresh and a wee bit loose. You can set up a TR on Amada's Route from the anchor of TDWH. You can walk to the top and access this anchor too! The carabiners on the anchor will some day become chains. please leave them there.
Wear a helmet and enjoy.