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The north side of the Y is where most of the climbs in this area are located. This side of the cliff is sunny for most of the day in the summer, but is shaded in the winter because the sun is low enough to be obscured by the south side of the canyon. You can set TRs or build anchors before scrambling down to the base; the descent is 3rd class and is easy to find by following the trail from the top to the west.
The North side of the Y is the cliff whose top you come to by hiking south 1 minute from the parking along the highway. To drop into the Y, go to the east, and find a 3rd class downclimb.
20 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Y - North Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Y - North Side:
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Open Book 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Triple Overhang 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Wisconsin 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
The Nose 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a X TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Y - North Side
Beastie Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Y - North Side
Climb the finger crack crux off the ground. This is 5.9 to 5.10+ depending on finger size and reach. Being taller with fat fingers helps. You can get finger size cams in, but don't fall, because without a perfect belay you'll land awkwardly on jagged rocks. DON'T SMEAR ON THE PETROGLYPH! If you're not sure you can climb this without impacting the archaeology, don't climb it. Easy 5.4 stemming leads to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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