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Spartan Wall Left
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Fudoshin S 
Layo and Bushwacka S 
Problème Mineur S 
Tales of Greek Heroes S 
Xerxes S 

Xerxes 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dave Musgrave, 2010
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 26, 2011

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Description 

Xerxes—everybody knows this one, right? Breakout single from nu metal pioneers, The Deftones?

Right.

And everybody should come to know this climb: it's sweet like the baffled, crying sustain off of Chino Moreno's drop-tuned Les Paul.

Walk up a gray, underwhelming ramp. Careful not to clip "Spasspartour," the line just a few feet to the right (and, really, starting just above the painted name "Xerxes" on the wall). Hump over a small and easy bulge. (Did you go around right? You didn't listen about "Spasspartour," did you. Drop to the ground and start over, nimrod.)

Now launch up the brown streak on the orange headwall. STAY OUT OF THAT BROKEN MESS ON YOUR RIGHT. That, too, is not your line, tasty as it looks. Instead, stay on the clean, sparsely pocketed wall and roll up the blankness until it gets cruxy. Stay outta that broken stuff on the left, too. No rests for you. Now thinner are the edges, greasy are the feet...you're in the bizzness. Now send that sucker and let's go get some Mythos.

Location 

JUUUUUST uphill from a small, sponge boat sized cave. If you see hardmen sending spectacular lines up brilliant, deeply pocketed hero lines...you've gone too far; you're at Spartacus. Backtrack until you see the shitty, gray, low-angle ramp. Don't worry, the climbing gets wicked good once you get on the endless orange headwall.

Protection 

19 draws. Yes, 19. This one goes the distance. Oh, and you'll want to be bringing that 80m for Xerxes..ours reached with notta lotta room to spare. A mid-point station on "Spasspartour" right next door, could probably come into play if'n you only brought the short cord.


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