Xenolith is the steepest and highest-rated pitch on the Quarry Wall. The first of 5 bolts is a little high for comfort if you're an inexperienced leader, but getting there only requires a 5.6ish move or two. Between bolts 1 and 3 is the crux, steady and steep face climbing with some thin holds. About 8-10 feet below the anchor look for the crystalline xenoliths ("strange rocks") that give this route its name. Stand in the deep, 6+ inch diameter pocket to comfortably set up your anchor. For extra credit, try the climb on top rope a few feet farther to the right, about halfway between the bolts and the dihedral. The crux is a little shorter and probably goes at about 5.8.
Xenolith is located left of Double B, which is the obvious, left-facing dihedral marking the right edge of the Quarry Wall. There is a comfortable boulder at the bottom for the belayer.
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The piton to the right and below the anchors is meant to be used when climbing Double B.
Ryan clipping on Xenolith.
|By Daniel H. Bryant|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 3, 2013
Between bolts 2-3 around the crux, there are some of these 'xenoliths' which you can use one as a hold. To me they look like little concentrations of white quartz, but I was too busy climbing to study them.