Xenolith  5.9

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  Stewart Green, Brian Shelton, and Brad Saren (Oct 2004) Submitted By:  Raymond Johnson on Nov 11, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Very nice climbing...climbed in memory of Kathy.

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Description 

Xenolith is the steepest and highest-rated pitch on the Quarry Wall. The first of 5 bolts is a little high for comfort if you're an inexperienced leader, but getting there only requires a 5.6ish move or two. Between bolts 1 and 3 is the crux, steady and steep face climbing with some thin holds. About 8-10 feet below the anchor look for the crystalline xenoliths ("strange rocks") that give this route its name. Stand in the deep, 6+ inch diameter pocket to comfortably set up your anchor. For extra credit, try the climb on top rope a few feet farther to the right, about halfway between the bolts and the dihedral. The crux is a little shorter and probably goes at about 5.8.

Location 

Xenolith is located left of Double B, which is the obvious, left-facing dihedral marking the right edge of the Quarry Wall. There is a comfortable boulder at the bottom for the belayer.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The piton to the right and below the anchors is meant to be used when climbing Double B.

Photos of Xenolith Slideshow

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Ryan clipping on Xenolith.