Xenolith is the steepest and highest-rated pitch on the Quarry Wall. The first of 5 bolts is a little high for comfort if you're an inexperienced leader, but getting there only requires a 5.6ish move or two. Between bolts 1 and 3 is the crux, steady and steep face climbing with some thin holds. About 8-10 feet below the anchor look for the crystalline xenoliths ("strange rocks") that give this route its name. Stand in the deep, 6+ inch diameter pocket to comfortably set up your anchor. For extra credit, try the climb on top rope a few feet farther to the right, about halfway between the bolts and the dihedral. The crux is a little shorter and probably goes at about 5.8.
Xenolith is located left of Double B
, which is the obvious, left-facing dihedral marking the right edge of the Quarry Wall. There is a comfortable boulder at the bottom for the belayer.
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The piton to the right and below the anchors is meant to be used when climbing Double B
BETA PHOTO: Xenolith and Double B.
Ryan clipping on Xenolith.
By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 3, 2013
Between bolts 2-3 around the crux, there are some of these 'xenoliths' which you can use one as a hold. To me they look like little concentrations of white quartz, but I was too busy climbing to study them.
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Apr 23, 2014
Not sure if the second pitch is for this or Double B, but there is a pretty fun second pitch that is probably 5.5 and protects with one piton or gear if you follow the cracks. It's runout but on easy terrain. Definitely worth the time. Rap off chains at the top to a huge ledge in the Quarry area, rap again or down climb.