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 ADVANCED
Quarry Wall
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Double B 
In the Way 
Monosmear 
Old'n 
Xenolith 

Xenolith 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Stewart Green, Brian Shelton, and Brad Saren (Oct 2004)
Page Views: 1,112
Submitted By: Raymond Johnson on Nov 11, 2007
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Very nice climbing...climbed in memory of Kathy.

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Description 

Xenolith is the steepest and highest-rated pitch on the Quarry Wall. The first of 5 bolts is a little high for comfort if you're an inexperienced leader, but getting there only requires a 5.6ish move or two. Between bolts 1 and 3 is the crux, steady and steep face climbing with some thin holds. About 8-10 feet below the anchor look for the crystalline xenoliths ("strange rocks") that give this route its name. Stand in the deep, 6+ inch diameter pocket to comfortably set up your anchor. For extra credit, try the climb on top rope a few feet farther to the right, about halfway between the bolts and the dihedral. The crux is a little shorter and probably goes at about 5.8.


Location 

Xenolith is located left of Double B, which is the obvious, left-facing dihedral marking the right edge of the Quarry Wall. There is a comfortable boulder at the bottom for the belayer.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The piton to the right and below the anchors is meant to be used when climbing Double B.



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Ryan clipping on Xenolith.
Ryan clipping on Xenolith.
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By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 3, 2013

Between bolts 2-3 around the crux, there are some of these 'xenoliths' which you can use one as a hold. To me they look like little concentrations of white quartz, but I was too busy climbing to study them.