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 ADVANCED
Bulletheads South
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cream of White Mice T 
Black Book, The T 
Coogee Crack T 
Dora's Delight T,S 
Golden Labs T 
Manana T 
Nuclear Arms T 
Slot Machine T 
Xenolith Dance S 

Xenolith Dance 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Thomson et al 2000
Page Views: 665
Submitted By: John Bradford on Dec 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Description 

Face climbing in two pitches, the first with 9 bolts on delicate moves, and the second through 7 bolts to the top of the face. A very nice climb, it makes a nice continuation off of slot machine as it is just a short walk from the top of that climb. The start is the 3rd bolt line from the right. It shares a start with Shannon's Dancing (11A)

Location 

Above Bullethead Ledge, there is a climber's trail that meanders up from the ledge, past the top of Coogee Crack. Better to climb Slot Machine and walk left to the base of the climb.

Protection 

Quickdraws


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By blakeherrington
Aug 4, 2008

Sustained and thought provoking, demands good technique and a cool head.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 31, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very sustained and thought provoking for the grade.
By Mike Teschke
From: North Vancouver
Jun 13, 2011

I just did the first pitch to chain anchors, fantastic climbing.