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Xcess S 

Xcess 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 26, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An outstanding route that has a good mix of climbing and rock type. The start is the same for X and Xtension, sharing the first bolt. Continue up and left over some chossy rock to reach a stance to clip the next bolt. Above the 3rd bolt comes the first crux where you do some bouldery moves to gain the flake system. Follow the flake system as it diminishes to the next crux on crimps that put you on the left side of the X face. Climb to the first overhang and pull a possible redpoint crux. Continue up to the next roof, pull it on great jugs, get a stance and clip the chains. The rock character changes dramatically when you reach the overhangs, very unusual texture and formation for AF up there.


Location 

Shares the start with X and Xtension. On the left edge of this area.


Protection 

bolts, shuts.



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By tenesmus
Mar 26, 2014

This is a nice route to work for breaking into the grade. First crux teaches you to hike your feet and lean into your hands. The second is techie and if you boulder goes quick. The third and fourth really are endurancey redpoint cruxes.

Warm up on those weird routes right after you cross the creek because the .11's at this crag are unpleasant.