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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail T 
Backslash T 
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 
Bit by Bit T,S 
Bottlenecks T 
Clean Dan T 
Coffee Break with Joe T 
Cold Turkey T 
Coniferous Types T 
Crazy Fingers T 
Cruising Lane T 
Detour, The T 
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 
Duh Dihedral T 
Early Bird Special T 
Fine Line T,TR 
Fork in the Road T 
Formula, The T 
Foxtrot T 
Funeral March T 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 
Hang Ten T,TR 
Highway 61 T 
Inverted Vee T 
Iron Pony T,S 
Kashmir T,TR 
Kubla Khan T 
Lady Fingers T 
Lunar Avenue T 
Lunar Lander T 
Masterbator's Edge, The T 
Milk and Honey T 
Milk Dreams T 
Mirage T 
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 
Parallels T 
Pool of Blood T 
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 
Rhadamanthus T 
River Of Darkness T 
Road Narrows T 
Sign of the Cross T 
Snail Mail T 
Srinagar T 
Tampon T,TR 
Tango T 
Tanqueray T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Texas Two-Step T 
Three Lane Highway T 
Toprope Right of Formula TR 
Trip Itch T 
Tryptich T 
Whatever T 
Willow World T 
Working Class Hero T 
X T 
Xanadu T 
Zap Snack T 
Zip Code T 

X 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Matt Samet, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 631
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Dec 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb straight up the middle of the face over a bulge past two cracks and continue on positive, incut flakes to a ledge and a tree belay with slings. The rock quality improves, the difficulty increases, and the gear becomes more sparse as you ascend the face. There is sufficient protection to be found, probably only jalepeņo spicy. This route was led ground up 12/1/07.

I guess we've got a 4 star system here, so I'm thinking two stars. We both thought it one of three stars, probably two of three with some traffic. This S.facing route makes a good winter warm up.

We *believe* this to be the first lead of this line after discussion with local authorities, but of course, you just never know, especially with the moderate grade and relatively obvious line.

Location 

This route begins in a small alcove just above the trail down and around the corner R. of Positively 4th St. and climbs the vertical face just L. of the large, R.-facing dihedral of Working Class Hero. This southerly exposed face is quite distinctive from the trail just below and approaching Pos.4th St. with 2 cracks forming an X across it at mid height. Rap off the tree with slings to the ground.

Protection 

Standard Eldo rack with an long sling for a horizontal flake to protect the final moves.


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By Brad Durbin
Jan 21, 2008

Nice addition Wayne. One might think that after leading or TR'ing this line that it could warrant a 10-, however, after doing many of the other lines in this area including Air Mail, it probably should only be a 9+. Plenty of gear until the final moves. Be prepared to sling the flake about 3/4 of the way up. Gets sun first thing so a good warmup on cold days. Two stars. Fun, vertical climbing.