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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail 
Barbie Doll Arete, The 
Bit by Bit 
Clean Dan 
Coffee Break with Joe 
Cold Turkey 
Coniferous Types 
Crazy Fingers 
Cruising Lane 
Detour, The 
Doc's Little Brother 
Dr. Michael Solar 
Duh Dihedral 
Early Bird Special 
Fine Line 
Fork in the Road 
Formula, The 
Funeral March 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) 
Hang Ten 
Highway 61 
Inverted Vee 
Iron Pony 
Kubla Khan 
Lady Fingers 
Lunar Avenue 
Lunar Lander 
Masterbator's Edge, The 
Milk and Honey 
Milk Dreams 
MRJR (aka MB III) 
Pool of Blood 
Positively Fourth Street 
River Of Darkness 
Road Narrows 
Sign of the Cross 
Snail Mail 
Terminal Velocity 
Texas Two-Step 
Three Lane Highway 
Toprope Right of Formula 
Trip Itch 
Willow World 
Working Class Hero 
Zap Snack 
Zip Code 


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Matt Samet, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 558
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Dec 4, 2007
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


Climb straight up the middle of the face over a bulge past two cracks and continue on positive, incut flakes to a ledge and a tree belay with slings. The rock quality improves, the difficulty increases, and the gear becomes more sparse as you ascend the face. There is sufficient protection to be found, probably only jalepeņo spicy. This route was led ground up 12/1/07.

I guess we've got a 4 star system here, so I'm thinking two stars. We both thought it one of three stars, probably two of three with some traffic. This S.facing route makes a good winter warm up.

We *believe* this to be the first lead of this line after discussion with local authorities, but of course, you just never know, especially with the moderate grade and relatively obvious line.


This route begins in a small alcove just above the trail down and around the corner R. of Positively 4th St. and climbs the vertical face just L. of the large, R.-facing dihedral of Working Class Hero. This southerly exposed face is quite distinctive from the trail just below and approaching Pos.4th St. with 2 cracks forming an X across it at mid height. Rap off the tree with slings to the ground.


Standard Eldo rack with an long sling for a horizontal flake to protect the final moves.

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By Brad Durbin
Jan 21, 2008

Nice addition Wayne. One might think that after leading or TR'ing this line that it could warrant a 10-, however, after doing many of the other lines in this area including Air Mail, it probably should only be a 9+. Plenty of gear until the final moves. Be prepared to sling the flake about 3/4 of the way up. Gets sun first thing so a good warmup on cold days. Two stars. Fun, vertical climbing.