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9. Chimney Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Abyss, The T,TR 
Boy Howdy T,TR 
Bushmaster T,TR 
Horizontal Tango, The T,TR 
In and Out T,TR 
Jugs of Whine AKA Magic Carpet Ride TR 
Poika TR 
Roofs T,TR 
Seduction and Rejection TR 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 968
Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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On lead during a hot summer day.


X is the crack route at the right edge of Chimney Buttress's large roof. Start up the left side of the crack eventually moving to its right side. Continue over the small roof (crux) and up on easier terrain.


Very protectable with nuts, medium to small cams, and hexes for the old schoolers or use a standard Blue Mounds toprope (long slings helpful).

Photos of X Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: X, Y, Z, and Neil.
X, Y, Z, and Neil.
Rock Climbing Photo: JL climbing X on a nice day
JL climbing X on a nice day
Rock Climbing Photo: leading up X
BETA PHOTO: leading up X

Comments on X Add Comment
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By Tyson S Arp
Feb 16, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think this is a little harder than 5.7. I noticed last time I lead it that the footholds are much more polished than they used to be, so I can't see changing the rating from the original 5.8+ to 5.7.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Mar 8, 2007

Where did you find an "original" rating of 5.8+? Compared to other 5.7s at Blue Mounds I don't think it's any more difficult and the feet are solid.
By Tyson S Arp
Mar 8, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

By "original" I am referring to the rating in the first guidebook for the park called "Prairie Walls" by Don Hynek & Eric Landmann. This book was published in 1989 and reprinted in 1993. Since then, ratings have been changed for many routes in the newer guidebooks that include Blue Mounds. Interestingly, however, most ratings have been bumped up recently and not down. Yes, it may not be an 8+, but I do think it is harder than Obvious Crack and Old Stump which are both 7's.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Mar 9, 2007

Ah, I've looked through the Hynek & Landmann guidebook before but don't own it. Regarding the overall grades at BM I've always felt they were definitely "old school".....a 5.9 here is usually a 5.10 elsewhere.
By kcomptalon95
Sep 6, 2010

fun climb! i would have to rate it at a 5.8 as well. significantly more difficult than other 5.7s at this crag. good protection, but wish i had some smaller nuts than what i brought up
By Pete Hunt
Jan 13, 2012

Nice lead with good pro. Bring a set of nuts for the numerous constrictions in the crack. Cams in the .75" to 1" range are also useful.
By ryanengel
From: Sioux Falls, SD
May 25, 2014

x is a great lead has lots of protection tri cams and nuts work great for this route

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