|Super Crack Tower
This is a direct start to Pre-Marital Sex. It is an OK start to a nice climb.
Follow double seams and slopey edges past a bolt to a short slot (#1 Camalot) then up and right to another short crack (maybe a #2?) then either straight up through choss or up left through a crack in the limestone band to the start of Pre-Marital sex.
This route has been top-roped but has yet to see a FA.
A couple hand sized pieces and a bolt will get you to Pre-Marital Sex.
From: flagstaff, az
May 21, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a PG13
Dicey! Xtra Marital is a slipery slope....
|By roman d|
From: Pasadena, CA
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Tyler and I did this on 3/28/10 thinking it was 10b. Quite a surprise! We probably spent as much time clearing caked mud off holds as we did climbing. Very off-balance and committing, though well protected. The grade is probably height-dependent. Similar to the first pitch of the Windows Route, but much harder.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I led this on 3/28 and then Roman led premarital sex. We thought it was the same route, but just a little sandbagged for 10b. It would get more stars but it is a little dirty. It would seem to be pretty height dependent - potentially much harder if you're under 6'1" or so. If taller than that then I wouldn't rate it harder than devious 5.10. if you are 6' or under I could imagine it might be more like mid 11. Definitely worth a shot if you're doing premarital sex. Three stars (as the route cleans up?) if combining with premarital sex.