|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 540'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]|
|FA:||Jay Smith, Paul Van Betten. 1986|
|Submitted By:||J. Thompson on Mar 25, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on X-15||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 25, 2009
I'm somewhat conflicted about this route.
On one hand I enjoyed it but on the other it's far from classic.
Both Challenger and Adventure Punks are MUCH better routes.
In his guidebook Jerry Handren states "X15 is probably the least climbed classic in Red Rocks".
This and the spectacular looking line were the reason's for me wanting to climb it.
What we found was not what you would expect from a classic.
The climbing on the first 3 pitch's was good and the grade was right on. However there was quite a bit of rotten rock. Some of it will clean up, some won't.
Pitch 4 was very interesting. This pitch involves delicate and runout climbing on some good rock and some bad. RP's protect a fair bit of the climbing and there is a funky hanging loose flake thing that must be negotiated.
I did not free this pitch, but took a couple of big falls onto thin gear trying. I would agree with the 5.11a rating however it's one of those pitchs that if you get it free, you might not do it again.
This route might be best done as 3 pitchs then rap from the fixed anchor. Your mileage may vary.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
I'm with josh on this one- I'm glad we did the route, but was not that excited about the 4th pitch, both before and after doing it.
A note on the descent: Either rappel from the top of Pitch 3 in two long rappels back down the route, or if you do the fourth pitch, do two LONG rappels down and rappellers left (south- toward Challenger). Skip the first station that has some spooky bolts and continue to the shiny new one 200' down. Two ropes are required either way you do it.
By Josh Janes
Mar 25, 2012
The lone pro bolt high on this route was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2012. If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org.
Unfortunately I did not have the tools to remove the existing pro bolt. I smashed the hanger flat to discourage clipping or use of this as an anchor station until it can be properly pulled/patched.
There are no fixed anchors on X-15 except at the very top. From there it is possible, stopping at every station, to rap diagonally down the wall with a single 70 meter rope.
By Cunning Linguist
Mar 26, 2012
|Thanks for your effort on the replacement, Josh.|