M Buttress 

FA:  James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 21 July 2006 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  5.7+ [details] Length:  9 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV Season:  Summer Views: 607 page views Submitted By: James Garrett on Jul 29, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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This is the wondeful left facing dihedral low on t...

Description 

Ambush is huge and vast. The route we called Triple Shot as we passed three distinct "summits"...one of which we needed to rappel down to continue. The M Buttress is its own mountain, really. Basically, this is just to the north of the the North Summit of Ambush. A huge dike forms the letter M at the lower part of the wall/arete. The route starts at the far left lower side of the letter M and follows the beautiful left facing dihedral and then on to the arete to the top of the first tower. It forms a huge ridge with the passing of three gendarmes to the top of the mountain. I believe we reached a summit higher than the north and south summits of Ambush. We were looking down to them?! Some really classic and excellent moderate pitches await the adventure climber on this one!

Location 

Start at the lower left side of the M formed by a dike

Protection 

Clean rack up to 3.5 Camalots

Photos of M Buttress Slideshow

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Pitch #7 with arete climbing, hand and finge...	The Unmistakable M at the bottom of the Buttress. ...	The great dihedral low on the M Buttress viewed fr...