Onsighting another very beautiful classic route in...
Description
A fun line but quite sharp, do it when you have fresh tough skin - not a good 3rd day on route! Climbs easily up the dihedral, gradually easing right onto the arete. Prepare for the crux when you are fully on the arete and making a long move. Powerful and possibly dynamic. Fun despite the pain.
Location
Located down and around the corner from the handful of routes near Wotai. You'll be scrambling around a few large boulders to get to the flat base near the dihedral immediately left of the blunt arete that is Medicine Man.
I don't know about .11c/d. I've never onsighted anything harder than 5.10 and cruised the crux of this only to fall off the upper section becuase the sun was in my eyes and I couldn't see where the pockets were. This was after at least 5 pitches of .10 and up climbing.
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