Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Erratic
Show routes:
Select route...
Heart Full of Ghosts 
Medicine Man 
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy 
Wotai 

When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy 

5.13a

   

FA: Amy Skinner
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Views: 351 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 19, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

When Mike was a young girl, he had him a cowboy to...


Description 

Good stone, mostly pretty movement on a fairly steep wall. Starts with inobvious bouldery crux on the many to choose from -- all face the wrong way small holds to a jug just above the 1st clip. From here big movement on decent holds leads to a several cruxes up high. You'll find one of the coolest slopers at Iris before the chains.


Location 

Located on the main Erratic, just left of a trio or quartet of 14's. Starts on the small sloping shelf on the left side of the wall.


Protection 

5 or 6 clips to anchors, possibly including lowering biners. Clip initial low bolts to avoid being strung out to dry and possibly stick clip the low 2nd bolt.



Photos of When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy Slideshow Add Photo
Working up to the 3rd bolt.

Working up to the 3rd bolt.

The redpoint crux.  Atleast, until you get past this move and fall on the slopers above.

The redpoint crux. Atleast, until you get past th...

Pumpy, thin, sharp pockets above the bulge.

Pumpy, thin, sharp pockets above the bulge.

With the previous bolt at your feet and a mounting pump, two evil slopers guard the finish.

With the previous bolt at your feet and a mounting...


Comments on When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Anderson
Aug 18, 2009

I think Amy Skinner did the FA of this, back before she was Amy Skinner. She climbs this in the original "Masters of Stone" - the greatest climbing film ever made.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 8, 2009

I would call the sloper more "heartbreaking" than "cool"! A truly excellent route, though sharp as hell. I'm surprised by the star ratings. This is one of the most classic & well-known 5.13s at The Wild Iris. Its also one of the only hard routes with more than 5 hard moves.