Justin Knaus on the 2nd pitch of Screw, jammin' gr...
Description
This route is located on the Northwest face. Screw is the second large crack system to the right of the large roof. The route starts with a blocky crack that leads to a chimney about thirty feet from the start. Once through the chimney stay to the right and follow the hand crack to a large ledge. Belay from this ledge. The first 15' after this ledge is offwidth. Cross the nearly horizontal section and finish the climb with a perfect hand crack. Walk off to the left.
Protection
I recommend a #4 Camalot to protect the offwidth crack at the start of the second pitch.
We found the chimney on pitch 1 is more easily tackled right side in. Placing pro is harder this way but it's possible to exit the chimney earlier on face holds by going right side in. The final 5.6 crack is positively top of the lin
the chimney is the gateway to superb handcracks. upon topping out, we couldnt resist the short but sweet cracks that take you up another level, still possible to scramble off. IT probably ups the grade to 8+, but is a great addition.
Nice route--good jams, good pro, chimney section was tough but it required only 3-4 moves and was well-protected. The rap chain stations indicated in the guidebook for 70' rappels no longer are there but the 120' station is usable. Walkoff east is just as easy.
You should be able to use a 60m rope to get down to the base of zipper, then downclimb down to the base of Hammer, and then off the formation. Kind of a hybrid descent, and a little scary in spots, but not too bad.
Valley Massif
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