This is the first crack system right of Screw on the Northwest face of the Valley Massif. This route consists mostly of excellent 5.8/5.9 hands, with the 5.10a flare in between for added excitement. This single pitch leads to the same belay ledge as for Screw. Heel and Toe describes the first section of this route as moderate offwidth, but it's actually moderate hands. The handcrack ascends from the ground about 30 feet to a horizontal crack / ledge. From the ledge, a right leaning flare heads up past a bush where it becomes a handcrack. The flare is the crux, and Heel and Toe describes it as hard to protect, although it is not. A #5 camalot would protect it best, though a flaring #4 camalot works.
Protection
Cams from 0.5" to 6.0", with doubles in the .75"-3.0" range. Mid-range stoppers.
A very good pitch. Slammer hands up to the ledge below the flare, at which point a yellow tcu can be placed high and left. After stepping off the ledge and placing a good #4 (or maybe 4.5?) camalot, a couple of 5.10 moves gets you thru the flare and back into hand and fist sizes...
Valley Massif
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