Kreighton Bieger just below the crux on the first ...
Description
On the SE face of Valley Massif, locate an obvious crack system that is pretty much straight up the middle of the crag. Consult Harper, et al. for a great photo. Third class it up to a ledge with a great view of the area, directly below the route. P1. Gain the bottom of a wide cleft below an overhanging hand to fist crack with a flake on its right. Work up the cleft, jam and layback the crack (some big gear) over its top to a great ledge and belay. P2. Work straight up a crack through a bulge to where it widens a bit, and be happy you have pants on. Solve the dilema of which direction to face, then enjoy great jamming. The crack eases off near the top and gains another huge ledge with a distinct block on top. P3-a. As per the book, locate a leaning crack that lies between a flake and the large block at the top. This is short, sweet and hard 9. P3-b. Hollerith Exit is a hand/fist crack on the right side of the block described for the regular third pitch. 5.8.
From the summit follow your nose off to the NE, boulder hop and walk off to the bottom. A small but distinct path can be found that will deliver you back at the east corner of the crag.
Protection
Range from small cams (yellow alien) to #6 Friend. #3 -#4 Camalots are handy, probably double up on the #3 at least. A #9 BD hex for the start of the P1 crux.
An excellent and varied climb. From the ground, P1 looks to be solidly in the mid-5.10 range, but the holds are definitely there - win new friends and silence your enemies with a photo of yourself exiting the overhanging crux on the handy, yet tenuous undercling/lieback flake. Both P2 and P3 also have their interesting moments.
My bad, I got a little anxious and put the route up before we were clear on which finish we'd done.
P3 has only two options - the obvious left leaning crack on the outside of the flake/block is the regular finish to Quits and allegedly goes at 9+ or so. The Hollerith Exit is located between the flake and the block and follows a short but sweet fist crack up in a bit of a squeeze job to the top of the block. This option is '5.8', but might feel harder, depending on who you ask and how macho you are.
Sorry for the confusion. Either way, there are two distinct and beautiful choices to exit this route.
By Jason Funk From: Laramie Wyoming Jun 18, 2008 rating: 5.9+
Great route that takes you to the top of the massif. Did the left sequence on the last pitch and felt like it was really stout. Reminded me of lower progressive but a slight bit harder. Makes sure to tape up the ankles for the off sections. I walked off with my left ankle gushing.
Valley Massif
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