Unusual route for Vedauwoo. Very thin liebacking with smears for the feet. Very insecure! The gear is adequete but the route is a little spicy.
Protection
Nice route hidden on a large boulder south and east from Spectreman in a nice stand of aspen trees. The route faces northeast and is formed by a small left facing dihedral. There is one bolt about 20 feet up and a few places for thin gear. Two bolt anchor at top is easy to get to so you can set up a top rope.
You actually found it ? I've tried several times to locate this route but was never able to find it.
By Jeff Giddings From: Fort Collins Aug 31, 2004 rating: 5.11b
This route is pretty cool and well worth looking for. Unusual thin face and laybacking. A little difficult to protect, but very easy to toprope from bolts if you don't want to lead it.
The new guide is wrong about this route being about 200 yards from Spectreman. It is more like 500+ yards away. The easiest way to get there is to head more or less due east from Spectreman, straight downhill and into a grove of aspens. Follow this grove of aspens as the grove trends right (south), and you will meet up with a small path on the southern side of the grove. This path will lead you right to the base of the route. Another option would be to walk east from the first high point on the path to Spectreman, until you have past the aspen grove to your right (south). Once you are on the eastern side of the grove turn south and follow the edge of the grove. The formation will be obvious from here as it is a tall boulder with a very distinctive open corner. A totally awesome, atypical route for Vedauwoo.
Any ideas as to the gear needed for a lead? My rack is a little lacking in the smallish sizes, so I was wondering what I might need for this climb in particular.
Upper Blair
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