A good wide hand and fist crack on the North Corner. This route sees very little sun. Approach from FR705AF parking area. Hike past the 8ball, then uphill to the left of John's tower which is directly behind the 8ball (tough break) with several good looking easy cracks on it's north face. From the ridge left of John's the climb is clearly visible as a giant left facing dihedral on the left side of North Corner. Approach from the ledge on the right. Good rap rings, 100' depending upon where you belay.
You'll need two ropes to get back down to the ground from the rap anchors at the top of the dihedral. One 60m rope will deposit you on the low angle slab and will probably require a weird downclimb. I was glad to have one #4 Camalot and one #4 Friend for this pitch, and even then I was doing a ton of backcleaning and cam walking. For the small fisted, this quickly turns into an OW-fest since the better jams are in the back of the crack
This is a great route but I think one #4 Camalot and two or three #3.5 Camalots would be a better gear selection. I found that most of the #4 placements were tight and overcammed.
By Mike D From: Fort Collins, CO Aug 14, 2007 rating: 5.10
I lead this great climb cleanly yesterday after two previous ascents (one follow and one lead with a hang). Toughing it out for the full length was the crux for me. My rack included a couple 4friends and a few 4 Camalots plus DEET.
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