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The Dungeon
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Escape Tunnel 
Life Without Parole 
Warden, The 

Life Without Parole 

5.12- V4

   

FA: Bob Scarpelli
Type: Trad, Boulder
Consensus: 5.12a V4- [details]
Length: 10 feet
Views: 751 page views

Submitted By: jammer on Sep 29, 2006


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Some climber on Life Without Parole. Photo by G.J...


Description 

This is probably Vedauwoos most classic leavitation problem. Start at the back of the short roof on two hand jams and kick your feet out over the wide lip. You will find a helpful crimp along the way, but the real meat of the problem lies in the contorted leavitation needed to work your way up to the fist at the top of the offwidth slot that starts at the lip. Strange sequence. After you squirm into the pod above the fist crawl into the cave and then down or drop onto your pad. This little beast is a lot of people's first leavitation problem. Classic.


Location 

This is the crack coming out the cave on the northwest side of The Dungeon.


Protection 

A pad is sufficient. You can also do it without a pad and just a spotter, as you come out of this one fairly slowly.



Add Photo Photos of Life Without Parole
Life Without Parole

Life Without Parole

Bob Scarpelli on his classic "Life Without Parole"

Bob Scarpelli on his classic "Life Without Parole"

Jason Anderson on Life Without Parole.

Jason Anderson on Life Without Parole.

Me on Life Without Parole<br /><br />Photo: J. Anderson

Me on Life Without Parole

Photo: J. Anderson