Condi 

FA:  Pete Takeda and Tom Parchman New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 133 page views Submitted By: P Takeda on Aug 7, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route follows the obvious double overhanging corner via a right trending crack. The crack goes from offwidth to hands to fingers, finally becoming a flared fist-sized crack above the lip (crux). As with many Vedauwoo routes, the crux has an inobvious solution -- this in the form of some hidden edges. Above lip, angle dramatically kicks back for fifteen feet to the belay. Start by traversing into the crack from the right on a horizontal ledge 15 feet above the base of the alcove. Belay on the ledge (# 1 Camalot for belay).

Location 

This route is located in a shaded alcove below (and directly South) of Spelunk Spire. The clean-cut corner is visible from the trail on the left end of the discontinuous cliff band, about 200 feet left (West) of Wrist Ranger. Gandhi (5.9+) is the corner immediately right.

Protection 

Single set of cams to #4 Camalot. A #6 Friend is nice to protect the opening chimney moves. Bring extra hand-sized gear for belay about 25 feet above the lip. Bolt belay should be added soon as this is a potential rope shredder.