K.P. 

FA:  Layne Kopischka & Gary Pousch c.1980 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 85 feet Views: 54 page views Submitted By: Danny Inman on Feb 16, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Just got in the chimney, feeling happy, breathing ...

Description 

I approached this using Klink (10a), which is a pretty fun, but short hand crack. From a large ledge, squirm into the very tight squeeze chimney. Endure the slick, tight, and sustained chimney for about 50 feet, until it opens up to a low-angle corner with a hand crack. As for Pro, I used a 1 # 6 BD at the start of the chimney, from there the pro is sparse (i.e., non-existant) unless you have a #4 & 5 Big Bro I suppose. For me the crux of this route was trying to balance my breathing with security. My chest is around 40", so the more secure the climbing (deeper in the chimney) the more impossible it was to breath.

At the top of the climb traverse climber's right, a good ways and find the rap anchors atop Labyrinth.

Location 

20 yards right of Pooh's Corner.

Protection 

Standard rack of hand-sized cams, couple of finger-sized pieces if approaching via Klink. As for KP; #6 BD and Big Bros. Bring a #3 BD for the belay.