Silent Bob following Climb and Punishment 5.9, at ...
Description
It seems like most climbing areas have a climb with this name. This is the left most crack system in the alcove located in the Reynolds Hill formation. Though my seconds may disagree, there was nothing punishing about this climb.
The start is a bit awkward - place and keep moving, but once you get through it, the rest of the route is pure enjoyment. C and P merges toward the top with Penis Dimension (a nice climb to the right) and shares the same anchors. Call it about 75 or 80 feet.
Protection
Standard rack. You don't need anything smaller or larger than a 1.5 and 4 Friend, respectively. Bring doubles in the hand-sized range and don't forget your stoppers. There is a fixed anchor at the top from which you can rappel with one rope.
This is a great route. Harder than it looks. Sinker jams the whole way. Gear list is perfect. Watch the rope when lowering off - a 60m makes it with little room to spare.
With the exception of the first 10 feet which are a bit awkward, sinker jams the whole way.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Jul 30, 2007
I am glad I didn't listen to Ben's advice on the gear. The suggestion of a double set of cams for this climb is a bit of a sandbag! I would probably take the following gear the next time I climb this one.
1X -> #1, 2 #1's, 4-6 #2's, 2 #3's, 1 #3.5, a few large nuts
Guy, you're not serious are you? My wife lead it with a double set and was pretty comfortable. She doesn't really run stuff out either. Did you miss some placements for smaller gear? Four to six #2's? I'm not quite sure if you could find enough room in the crack to fit so many!
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Jul 30, 2007
Slim, the climb stays at the #2 size for about 50ft. I wouldn't call 4-6 cams in that size to be excessive. I am sure you could search around for smaller gear, if you had to. I would think the average climber would be wanting more than 2 #2's on this climb, assuming that you didn't carry hex's.
By JacobD From: McCall, ID Aug 7, 2007 rating: 5.9+
It may give you 50 feet of perfect hand jams, but the crack tapers down to smaller than that a LOT. So you could get away with a double set if you didn't feel like placing gear in your jams, or preferred to go deeper with your placements.
Also, if you find yourself bouted by the start, head over towards the Plumbline Crag and fire off the boulder problem "Unnamed Crack 2". It's basically the same moves, but you don't have to fiddle with gear.
Reynolds Hill
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