This classic line lies in the center of the SE side of Poland Hill. Scramble up to the low angle hand crack in a right facing dihedral, then climb with determination and haste the overhanging hand crack that continues above (crux). Belay just below the wide crack. With good protection surmount the interesting slot (5.9ish) and belay atop. Walk off the back of the formation.
Protection
Standard Vedauwoo rack up to four inches, emphasizing the hand sizes. There are no anchors or bolts on this route.
"Interesting" is right. Watched my part do a knee bar with one leg and kicked his other leg above is head to pressure off another feature. If you're doing it right, the first part is not at all strenuous. Remember to hang from the jams and don't over do it while jamming.
This route can easily be done in one pitch. The only reason to set a belay is if you want to clip into bird-crap coated slings in a reeking, festering spot. Not a good enough reason.
Don't be intimidated by the steep crux on p.1 - the jams are bomber. This climb is best done in one pitch.
By Stephen Marsh From: Golden, CO Sep 25, 2005 rating: 5.10a
I really enjoy this climb - except for getting around the bird crap in the middle. Have done it twice so far, always in one pitch. The second time I had no one able to second it, so I set a belay at the top, and was able to clean all my gear easily on rappel. Just had to go around back and scramble up to get my anchor pieces. The second half looks alot harder than 10a from the ground but the hidden ledges help alot. Some #1 and .75 camalots are all you need for a quick anchor setup.
The steep hands section is classic and not to be missed. I too had trouble puzzling my way into the upper OW/chimney. Bring at least one #4 camalot size piece for the upper section. This climb should be done as one pitch.
Poland Hill
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