From Fantasia, go right about 5 feet, give or take, to the flaring finger crack that is non-existent at the bottom.What I did was climb Southwest Friction and use the TR anchor bolts from Fantasia.As for the rating, Heel and Toe says 11c. I'm not even close to an 11c climber, so I say 11a/b. But it is very hard. Enjoy!
Protection
Just past the horizontal crack, there is a fixed piton. Now, I did this on top-rope, but if anyone does want to lead it - I would take a regular set of nuts and maybe a couple of tiny hexes, but nothing much larger.
I climbed the route in the early 80's and thought it was 11c.
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY May 9, 2004 rating: 5.11c
Piana, 1982.
As for gear, I'd bring some offset friends or hybrid aliens, a set of small nuts and maybe a red alien for the top. Also, some boldness is necessary to get up to where you can protect it after the piton. Orenzak suggests a big piece right off the belay, but if your belayer is squishy, it shouldn't be a problem.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 17, 2004 rating: 5.11c
11c with a bouldery start. I tried it a few times in floppy loose shoes and it was utterly impossible. I got it on TR wearing someone elses shoes.Frankly, I thought it would have been MUCH harder for the short. an 11a route with a ??? opening boulder problem that could be 5.11a-12? depending on height. The starting pinch below the climb is broken now too, but I didn't do it, so maybe it's been that way for a long time.
I climbed this route last fall and it was hard - solid 11b or c. I particularly like the face below it if the boulder behind you isn't used. Once to the piton and on the route, it felt like a one-move 11. After the piton, it feels like a difficult 10. The jams suck, but they're there. For the first timer, climb SW Friction or Fantasia and TR using the bolts above Fantasia. I would definitely recommend doing this route at least once.
Poland Hill
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