Petit Crapon lies 20' left of Sugar and right around corner from Fantasia in an alcove. The start looks harder than it actually is. This route has 2 distinct sections that require completely different techniques. Although described as an offwidth, the first half is straight up chimneying for the most part. Exit the chimney onto a ledge, then continue up arching finger crack (crux) to easier ground (protects well with .5 camalot). Belay in horizontal crack. Descend as for Kim.
This route requires nothing larger than a #4 camalot to protect well...
If the route would not have somehow been rated 5.9 (are you kidding?) it would then be one of the easiest 5.8's at Vedauvoo. The feet in the sqeeze chimney are so good that you should not have much trouble. Easier still for small people.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jul 9, 2002
I'd have to agree with Tony. The bottom chimney section is probably 5.7/5.8 and very secure. The crux finger crack I'd call 5.9, but it is a one move wonder with protection at your nose.
Agreed with the softness of the rating on this - compare this with Fantasia - now THAT is burly 5.9. Still, I thought this was a fun route with a nice mix of climbing thrown in.
Poland Hill
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