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Sugar Crack 

5.7

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 1,131 page views

Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Jan 11, 2002


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Photo on September 9, 2002 by Mark Howell.


Description 

This route is worth doing if you are in the area. It is located about 50 feet to the right of Fantasia.

P1: Follow the acute leaning dihedral for 50 feet. A #3.5 or #4 Camalot is useful if you want to sew up the exit face moves out of the top of the crack.

P2: Follow the path of least resistance to the top of the formation.

Descent: A one rope rap off of the anchors above Kim (5.6) will get you to the ground.


Protection 

Pro to 2" with optional #4 Camalot.



Photos of Sugar Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Sugar Crack 5.7-

BETA PHOTO: Sugar Crack 5.7-

Lizzy stemming up the bottom of sugar crack.

Lizzy stemming up the bottom of sugar crack.

The last move out of p1 of Sugar Crack.  Sporting the CB.com Tee.

The last move out of p1 of Sugar Crack. Sporting ...


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 27, 2009
By Aaron Shupp
Feb 20, 2002

This is certainly a fun pitch. There are some nice stems that make it even easier.

By Hill
May 6, 2002

It is easy to walk off to the west from the top of the first pitch if people are occuping the anchors on Kim...

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 26, 2002

This route can easily be done as a single pitch - ropedrag is not a problem. From the top of the main 40' crack, walk forward and move up easy ramp to the left. Follow easy crack to top and belay in horizontal crack.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 22, 2002

Looks vaguely like Butt Crack to me...

By Michael Kullman
Sep 2, 2003

Great route - much more interesting than Kim (which I thought was waaaaay over rated as a 'classic'). Some pretty stiff moves on this at times, I thought this was only slightly easier than Petit Crapon.

By Anonymous Coward
May 16, 2004

this was my first, and to date only climb at vedauwoo. the guidebook i was going by said 5.6. looking up at this nice-looking crack i thought it was going to be a nice stroll, since i lead 5.8 pretty comfortably. about halfway up, i discovered that what they say about the steep nature of vedauwoo rating is true! here it is listed 5.7, i felt like it was 8+. i think what made it seem so hard was the total lack of face features. by the top i was literally begging for a crimp. still, i enjoyed it (i think) and when i feel like eating more humble pie, i will return to vedauwoo!

By Matt Chan
From: Denver, CO
Oct 11, 2004
rating: 5.7+

Moves out of the crack on P1 felt hard for 5.7. Gear to a #2 camalot was sufficient. P2 - one star only, next time I'll run the two together.

By Sara
From: Conifer, CO
Oct 18, 2005
rating: 5.7

This was one of my favorite climbs at Vedauwoo! We did have trouble figuring out how to get over to Kim from the top to rap down and ended up just walking off the backside.

By nolteboy
Feb 2, 2006

This is a fine route. Judicious use of the right foot in and on the right side of the trough will make all the difference...

By Sam Benedict
Jul 25, 2006
rating: 5.7

Sugar Crack is very sugary, very sweet. Typical Vedauwoo 5.7, not entirely easy. My memory is foggy of this climb, but I think I did an alternate second pitch. My buddy called it "boulder hop", It was only about 30' tall, starts with some fun wide stemming off another boulder, after that ends there are a couple of in-your-face fisting/stacking moves, then your done. I had to hang at the stacking section, walked away with a huge gobbie, but sent it second effort. Is this the usual second pitch? If so... what the F**k?!?

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2006

That was Boulder Hopper (listed on the site), a physical 5.9 on arm-bars. To maintain the 5.7 grade you continue straight back up the lower angle rock instead of doing Boulder Hopper, on the left.

By Brian Story
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.7

Good climb for jamming practice. Bring gear up to a #3 Camalot. Do it as one pitch. I think the 5.7- grade is fair by Vedauwoo standards.

By Steve Prager
From: Laramie, Wy
Jun 15, 2008

Fun climb, definitely worth checking out. There are big fat rap bolts at the top of the main pitch, just after you exit the wide section.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 16, 2008

Steve, do you mean the top of the first pitch, or the top of the second pitch? If it's the first pitch, those need to be removed. There is not a single reason to rap from there, as the walk-off is short and easy, there's a horn you can sling to rap from, and the rappel eats ropes. If it's the second pitch, well, that's different.

By colin tuck
From: Laramie
May 27, 2009

There are indeed bolts at the top of the first pitch. I suspect someone wanted to take newbies out toproping here, there is no other goddamn reason for them. Lame. Chop 'em.