This route is worth doing if you are in the area. It is located about 50 feet to the right of Fantasia.
P1: Follow the acute leaning dihedral for 50 feet. A #3.5 or #4 Camalot is useful if you want to sew up the exit face moves out of the top of the crack.
P2: Follow the path of least resistance to the top of the formation.
Descent: A one rope rap off of the anchors above Kim (5.6) will get you to the ground.
It is easy to walk off to the west from the top of the first pitch if people are occuping the anchors on Kim...
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jun 26, 2002
This route can easily be done as a single pitch - ropedrag is not a problem. From the top of the main 40' crack, walk forward and move up easy ramp to the left. Follow easy crack to top and belay in horizontal crack.
Great route - much more interesting than Kim (which I thought was waaaaay over rated as a 'classic'). Some pretty stiff moves on this at times, I thought this was only slightly easier than Petit Crapon.
this was my first, and to date only climb at vedauwoo. the guidebook i was going by said 5.6. looking up at this nice-looking crack i thought it was going to be a nice stroll, since i lead 5.8 pretty comfortably. about halfway up, i discovered that what they say about the steep nature of vedauwoo rating is true! here it is listed 5.7, i felt like it was 8+. i think what made it seem so hard was the total lack of face features. by the top i was literally begging for a crimp. still, i enjoyed it (i think) and when i feel like eating more humble pie, i will return to vedauwoo!
Moves out of the crack on P1 felt hard for 5.7. Gear to a #2 camalot was sufficient. P2 - one star only, next time I'll run the two together.
By Sara From: Conifer, CO Oct 18, 2005 rating: 5.7
This was one of my favorite climbs at Vedauwoo! We did have trouble figuring out how to get over to Kim from the top to rap down and ended up just walking off the backside.
Sugar Crack is very sugary, very sweet. Typical Vedauwoo 5.7, not entirely easy. My memory is foggy of this climb, but I think I did an alternate second pitch. My buddy called it "boulder hop", It was only about 30' tall, starts with some fun wide stemming off another boulder, after that ends there are a couple of in-your-face fisting/stacking moves, then your done. I had to hang at the stacking section, walked away with a huge gobbie, but sent it second effort. Is this the usual second pitch? If so... what the F**k?!?
That was Boulder Hopper (listed on the site), a physical 5.9 on arm-bars. To maintain the 5.7 grade you continue straight back up the lower angle rock instead of doing Boulder Hopper, on the left.
Steve, do you mean the top of the first pitch, or the top of the second pitch? If it's the first pitch, those need to be removed. There is not a single reason to rap from there, as the walk-off is short and easy, there's a horn you can sling to rap from, and the rappel eats ropes. If it's the second pitch, well, that's different.