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The Red Snapper 

5.13 V11-12

   

FA: Andy Reather
Type: Trad, Boulder
Consensus: 5.13 V11-12 [details]
Length: 15 feet
Views: 555 page views

Submitted By: jammer on Jan 29, 2008


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Red Snapper is the seam under the bulge.



Description 

This a fantastic crack problem. It is also a sloper problem. Andy did the problem by pulling on the traversing flared crack like a rail, and the V grade given reflects a consensus of opinion from other people that did it in his style. You can also primarily crack climb it, only using a couple of face holds, and the crack grade reflects my opinion on how hard it is to do it that way. People who face climb it don't all think that it is a quality problem, but I think it is a fantastic crack problem if you are in to that sort of thing. Either way you climb it, it is very representative of Vedauwoo style climbing. A quality find on Andy's part.


Location 

This problem is not actually on Old Easy, but park in the parking lot as for Desiderata. Get on the turtle rock trail and follow it as it bends northeast around the very base of old Easy. You will pass a couple of really cool huge boulders sitting right in the middle of the trail, one of which has a huge nose sticking off it (some cool face problems). A ways past these boulders, right about when you get to where the forest is thick on both sides of the trail you will see a small pile of rocks on the right, which will be the first real rocks you see once you are past the two big boulders. Walk down into the boulders on the northeast downhill side of the pile and look around for this distinct flared right traversing crack, which faces uphill.


Protection 

A couple pads.



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By molony
Aug 7, 2008

Ok so, in the guidebook it says to walk past 2 dead cut trees on the right of the trail. This doesn't mean the tree stumps, but rather the two trees that were in fact cut down and are laying on the right side of the trail.