Old Easy Arete (a/k/a "Arettez Maintenant") 

FA:  Ben Boykin, Dean Twitchell, c.1993 Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 120 feet Views: 116 page views Submitted By: Ben Boykin on Jun 22, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Sustained crystalline friction @ 5.9, first 3 bolts; Tech crux @ 4th bolt(Might even be 10a). Rob Kelman, guidebook author, downrated route from original rating of 10a to 9 in 1994's "Heel & Toe." Recently (2007), Rob said, "It's become harder. Couldn't be because I've gotten older, could it??" This would be a bad route for the second to fall of of, hence I have added two more bolts in the middle section & one at the very top.

Location 

Look for an obvious line of bolts on the rounded arete to the left when about to begin the 3rd class approach to MRC. Standard descent from Old Easy's MRC area.

Protection 

All 3/8-inch bolts. Sustained crystalline friction @ 5.9, first 3 bolts; Tech crux @ 4th bolt(Might even be 10a) with sporty reach to easier ground @ 5th [new]bolt; 6th [new] bolt sets up leader to 5.4 moves to [new] 6th bolt, leading to loose, gravelly crystals @ 7th & 8th bolts. [New] 9th bolt protects second from the big swing should footing be insecure. Natural anchor (an 18-foot cordelette works well around the boulder at the top). At the middle section, we used to reach over the arete and place a few small camalots in the crack underneath, but being as that was "Department of Prior Knowledge," I chose to add bolts here this year (2007).