Mountain Project: Climbing MRC Direct

FA:	unknown
Type:	Trad
Consensus:	5.9 [details]
Views:	711 page views

Submitted By: Skip Harper on Jan 1, 2001

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Description

Found on the west face of Old Easy, 'MRC DIRECT' (#1 on topo) is one of the most striking lines encountered at Vedauwoo. While it is a true hand crack classic, it may be climbed less than one would expect.

Several cracks overlap and intersect witheach other, making it seem more comfusing than it really is. It is the most central, 2 pitch line with a belay station (B) midway, just under the prominent roof. The crux is turning the roof! After this, one moves up and gradually right to the second belay (on gear). To get to the rap anchors (XX), one climbs up and left (facing the rock) to the rounded top of the formation. Double ropes will get you down in one rap, but a single 60 M rope requires an intermediate stop at the 1st belay station under the roof.

OTHER VARIANTS:MRC LEFT (#2, 5.7) strikes out left from the first belay on 'DIRECT', traverses 25' along a ledge and ascends a prominent handcrack which widens to offwidth near the top. The top belay is on gear. The rap is the same as for 'DIRECT'. THE SEAM VARIATION (#3, 5.10a) starts midway up the first pitch of 'DIRECT' and is then continuous with 'LEFT'. RALPH CALLED (#4, 5.10b) is the left crack above the roof of 'DIRECT' which goes vertical and is continuous with a bolted face to the top rap anchors. FINGER TRIP ROOF (5.10a) is a harder variant of the prominent big roof of 'DIRECT', taken by going up the right side of the roof, somewhat off line.

TWO OPTIONAL EXIT PITCHES: MIDDLE EXIT (5.9) THE STRAIGHT EDGE (#5, 5.10a). See guidebook for details-take larger pro.

OPTIONAL BEGINNING PITCH: ARRETEZ MAINTENANT (#6, 5.9). See guidebook for details.

Protection

Take all cams from '0' to #3 Camalot (#3 1/2 Friend) and a full set of wires. This route literally 'eats pro'.

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By Darrin Stein
From: Moab, UT
Dec 7, 2001

I have a couple photos of this route, but why bother...just look at Anonymous's and you'll get the facts.

This is a great line and is a must do when visiting. Sold jams and placements make for a great few hours here.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2002

Ralph Called is crumbling and not very fun at all. My advice is not to bother with that variation.

By Anonymous Coward
May 12, 2003

Straight Edge is a mini-classic, and by far the best finish, IMHO. Quite strenuous and somewhat of a sandbag at 10a though, I thought. Highly recommended in any case. Maybe bring an extra fist-sized piece or two.

By Joe Collins
Aug 11, 2003

I'm glad to see there has been some grade revision for Straight Edge (9+ in Heel/Toe), but 10a is still a pretty big sandbag. A long-sleeve shirt should be a key piece of gear for this variation, since the fist jams are nearly an arm-length back in the crack (for my hands anyway). Save a #4 friend for the belay... the belay does not take large nuts as stated in the guide. A 6' leap is required to get back down to the MRC rap anchors if you top out on Straight Edge.

By Brian Weinstein
Jul 7, 2004

high quality area. we found the top slab to the rap anchors a wee bit frictiony with one bolt and some tasty exposure.

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