Some of the hands on this crack. This photo is a ...
Description
This is a burly little roof crack. Start with a foot in the first pod, which is about a foot from where the crack starts as a hairline seam, and your hands in the two first knuckle/tips locks that are a few feet further out and about six inches apart. If you start in the flared hands, you are starting too far out. Climb through some bad flared hands and when you can, make a desperate crack switch to the right. After you are established in the second crack, stem out to the boulder behind and to your left, and top out on that boulder. I would have finished straight up the second crack, which would have been the natural line, but I didn't want to wreck the rodent house that is blocking that crack off. This problem has cool subtle movement and is pretty much a pure jamming crack. The name was inspired by how hard you have to squeeze on the bad flared hands.
Location
This is located on the huge boulder that is between The Cupcake and Friday The Thirteenth. The best way to access the problem is through the cave which is more or less on the east side of the boulder.
I was just walking around the other day and decided to go see what this thing looks like. At first, I was like "this can't be 5.13" and then I looked up. That'd do it. Impressive send Justin.