Very stiff and beautiful line, accentuated by the lovely lichen covered water streaks on either side. Quite overhanging with two cruxes, hardest right off the ground, then another after the handjam pods. Groovy climb, the only standout line on the boulder it resides on. Shuts most everyone down. Do it!
Location
On the biggest boulder down and to the left from Finally, which is the most obvious line facing the western parking lot for The Nautilus. On this boulder, it's on the side facing The Nautilus.
Protection
Good, though it looks bleak in spots. Green to red Aliens, can get a #3 Camalot in the flare up top. Bolts up top, pull the lip!
That is possible John, but talking with locals it can be credited to one of the following: Steve Petro, Todd Skinner, Paul Piana. I don't imagine Paul Piana, given his propensity to censor names put in his guide books on climbs up around Lander, would have named it 'Harder Than Your Husband', but then again original names don't always catch on. Always the topic of local debate, many of the hard climbs from the eighties and early nineties have been credited to various sources at various times. Thus I left it "?". In either case a beautiful line that sees WAY more failures than successes.
Brian, if you look carefully there was a big crystal about the size of your thumb that used to reside up a little on the left side of the crack. Bob Scarpelli says this is a lot harder now that that crystal is gone, and he did it both with and without the crystal. Whoever said Bob couldn't climb thin cracks! I can't imagine how hard this thing must be for him given the size of his meathooks, an especially impressive feat.
I'm not saying the moves aren't there, I mean the necessary moves to do it in its present condition in fact transcend my understanding of rock climbing. It mind boggling, to me, that various Vedauwoo regulars have done it free, on lead no less. I can climb stand and deliver, drop a toprope over this and hang there looking stupid, but I absolutely cannot climb it.
I think Paul did do the first lead and it was top roped first by Kevin & Barbara Bein. The name was inspired by Barbara...who was climbing so well at the time...hence...climbing harder than her husband(Kevin).
Thanks Bob. Also, to expand upon what Bob has said above, I believe any controversy over who did the FA is brought up because Paul didn't place all of his pieces on lead, so the first redpoint fell to someone else.
Nautilus
RSS Feed
