Steep with two pods to get through. Mostly hands. Climbers with smaller hands will find the very top harder, as it is big deep hands. Lots of people lead this, there is even an anchor up top. If you do it in traditional style, you can climb into and down the tree right by it, not too terrible. It's got a great landing, so go for it! Probably the most classic boulder problem at Vedauwoo.
Location
On the east end of the south side of The Nautilus there is a big freestanding boulder right off the trail. This right leaning crack is on it's overhanging east side.
I tried this one this weekend for a short period. I got my hands to the second pod, bouldering, not on lead, I had climbed some of the other boulder problems rated 10-10+ and this seems like the hardest. I don't know how sand bagged it is but it's fairly sustained. I will get it eventually, any recommendations on what problems will help me with technique for this one?
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Oct 10, 2006 rating: 5.10d V0+
I lead it, not bouldered it, so I am not quite sure how to rate it as a boulder... but 5.10d sounds right. It's not technical, it's just difficult. I suspect the level of difficulty and crux location are both hand-size dependent. Cups, fists, and forearms got me up this without any stacks, despite my very gracile mits (not at all wide). When my fist jams were rattly, I stuffed in up to my elbows and flexed my forearms in for a larger second point of contact. YMMV. My forearms are a good deal bigger than my fists.
If your hands are large and the hard part is the off-fists to the low side, try jaming by rolling the thumb tips as if to touch the base of your pinky, then twist the hand. I find this more effective than cupped hands, and less exhausting. Again, YMMV.
Jason, you seem to be having trouble reaching through the pod up there. I would recommend getting a thumbs up jam with either hand at the bottom of the pod and then reach through to the top of the pod with the other hand. For pods in fist cracks, use a palm up fist instead. Standard fare technique for getting through short pods in hand cracks, and a good technique to learn. Sorry, I can't think of any easier problems that would teach that technique, this one is particularly good for that. A good harder one would be Nats Three Star Roof, and it's a LOT closer to the ground. Even if you can't pull the lip, there are some valuable lessons to be learned under the roof itself. Stacks are entirely unnecessary on this climb.
The crux, so far as we could tell, was moving past the pod, since there's not as many features to smear on with your right foot until you're past the pod. Good jams the whole way though.
And its not that high, just bring a few pads and boulder it.
I came back and got the redpoint on my 3rd try. got past the second pod first try and fell from probably 15-20 feet up, 2 pads did the job perfectly. I was so excited when I got to the top, 'cause I had no preconcieved expectations, I almost didn't make it as I slipped near the last couple moves. I just told myself, "you're so close don't give up" and I fought as hard as I could and I made it.
Nautilus
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