Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Nautilus
Show routes:
Select route...
A Little on the Ugly Side 
Automotive Supply House 
B-G Crack 
Baalbek 
Baldwin's Chimney 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Heaven 
Bombs Away aka B52 
Bug Squad 
Candlestick 
Cannonball 
Captain Nemo 
Cool Hand Luke 
Cornelius 
Crankenstein 
Cupcake 
Deception 
Deep Throat 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers 
Dual 
Easy Jam 
Ejector-Rejector 
Elevator 
Escalator 
Etude For The Left Hand 
Etude For The Right Hand 
Failure to Communicate 
Final Cut, The 
Finally 
Flare Thee Well 
Flying Buttress 
Friday the 13th 
Ghost Dance 
Grand Traverse, The 
Gravity's Rainbow 
Hairlip 
Hamburger Crack 
Handjacker 
Harder Than Your Husband 
Hesitation Blues 
Horticulture 
Humper 
In the Groove 
Jim Jam 
Left Torpedo Tube 
Lower Progressive 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot 
Max Factor 
MaxiLash 
Middle Parallel Space 
Mother 1 
Nitrogen Narcosis 
Octagon 
October Light 
Old Eyefull 
Outrider 
Par Four 
Piton Perch 
Popcorn Farce 
Postman, The 
Right Parallel Space 
Right Torpedo Tube 
Right Winger 
Slat 
Slick and Superficial 
Slit 
Slut 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver 
Stinkzig 
Straight 4 Ward 
Ted's Trot 
Tempest 
Thin Lizzy 
TTL 
Upper Progressive 
Upper Slot Left 
Vault 
Vedajuicer, The 
Vulture Direct 
War Zone 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy 

Vulture Direct 

5.10a

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 310 page views

Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 18, 2004


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Vulture Direct


Description 

A relatively fun and varied wide crack.

Start as for Right Parallel Space, but stay right in the slot and head for the shallow, hanging chimney. Employ chimney and offwidth technique for about 20' feet until stemming is possible; this crux section is well protected using the hand and finger crack at the back of the wide crack. Stem for about twenty feet into an alcove where you trend left, passing an optional, uninspiring anchor and reach a low angle wide crack. This crack has plentiful face holds on its left side and lasts for about 25'; it would probably take a 4.5 Camalot which we did not have. When this last wide crack ends, face climb straight up to chain anchors at the top of the buttress; somewhere in this stretch it is nice to have a couple of cams 1" and smaller. Rope drag can be a problem if doing this as one pitch so sling accordingly.

Rappel as for Middle Parallel Space -- two raps the first about 40', the second _ 100'.


Protection 

Nuts to 4.5 Camalot, slings



Add Comment Comments on Vulture Direct
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
From: Leadville, CO
Jul 26, 2004

Maybe it was a high-gravity day, but this is possibly the hardest ".10a" I've ever climbed. Anyone else feel this way?

By Craig Scariot
Aug 22, 2004

Rob, I agree completely

By Jeff Giddings
From: Fort Collins
Apr 21, 2005

I also agree - very hard for the grade. And be careful of all the bat shit.

By chris parks
Jul 14, 2005

Did this climb a few weeks ago. There is a raptor [nest] equiped with raptors at the top of this thing. Probably should avoid this climb for awhile. I attempted leading this thing and fell out just after the squeeze section. Also couldnt get this thing when following so I would agree this is a hard 10a,

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 18, 2007
rating: 5.10a

I didn't think this was to bad, just climb the chimney left side in and start stemming as soon as possible when you get to the hand crack.

By Brian Weinstein
Jul 27, 2007
rating: 5.10a

A demanding and physical route that is so typical of Vedauwoo, this pitch is earned...especially when you're face is in loads of guano.