Diane cruising up the lower section of Deception. ...
Description
Just across the way from Friday the 13th is this deceiving line. From a distance, it looks like a simple off-width. Get closer, it looks like hands. Once you're in it, its awkward face moves (in the crack) for about 20 feet until you hit a finger crack. Follow said finger crack up to a ledge, then farther to rap bolts.
The description above describes the first pitch only, which I'd put in the 5.8 range (a fun lead for those who aren't willing to give Friday the 13th a go). Deception is best done by linking the 2 pitches to the top. The 5.9 comes in a lieback corner just above the rap rings mentioned above. The lieback eventually opens to a short squeeze chimney. Most people will want a #4 camalot for this part.
We weren't able to easily reach the Middle Parallel Space or War Zone anchors from the top of this pitch. To desced, we scrambled over to the anchors on the other side of the formation at the top of Nemo.
Fun route that packs a nice variety of climbing, harder than it looks (although most of it is 5.7/5.8). The top-out to get to the rap anchors is kind of spooky for moderate leaders (a couple of stout 5.8 slab moves with no pro and a potentially nasty fall). Be sure to go straight up to the very top of the formation and set up an anchor in a small crack to belay the second up this short section (avoids a potential pendulum).
Not too bad to link up the two pitches into one, extending the bolt anchor sling genrously. In addition to the #4 Camalot where the the second pitch goes wide, I placed a #4.5 Camalot to protect the final wide section.
By vansickle From: Boulder Apr 24, 2008 rating: 5.7
I always thought this was called thunder bolt, 5.9 no f-in way its 5.7 with no baggin
Nautilus
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