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Cornelius 

5.5

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 1,516 page views

Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 22, 2002


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Cornelius (5.5) on Nautilus at Vedavoo Rocks in Wy...


Description 

This route is located about 2 minutes from the parking lot and is next to Easy Jam. Follow a trail around to the left of the Nautilus until a dihedral is found (Easy Jam) with a beautiful finger crack curving up and to the right. Climb the finger crack and belay at a shelf 30-40 feet up. A walkoff can be found by going to the right, squeezing through a small hole, and descending a easy chimney.


Protection 

This is a short pitch, and it eats up as much gear as you can stuff in it. It could easily be lead on a set of nuts, but aliens or small cams are also very useful.



Photos of Cornelius Slideshow Add Photo
cornelius is this stellar little crack on the nautilus.

cornelius is this stellar little crack on the naut...

Rachel leading the Cornelius. (July 24th, 2005)

Rachel leading the Cornelius. (July 24th, 2005)

Jenny Chamberlain leading Cornelius.

Jenny Chamberlain leading Cornelius.


Comments on Cornelius Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2009
By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Jul 3, 2003

Another walkoff is to go far right (past the Three Sisters area) to an obvious walk-off. Don't go left or straight ahead to a small hole w/chimney. That's Candlestick (5.7) which I doubt you'd want to downclimb.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 28, 2003

That small hole to the right is called " the worm hole" and it's a fun descent (canyoneering anyone)

By Michael Kullman
May 20, 2004

This is a fun little route, probably one of the better beginner trad leads at Vedauwoo (along with Easy Jam just to the left).

By Rob Migliore
Sep 27, 2004
rating: 5.5

I thought the walk-off was almost as heady as the climb. Otherwise, a must do for the trad-newbie.

By Chris Zeller
From: Broomfield, CO
Jun 7, 2006

We decended via the bolts at the top of etude to the left/right hand on the opposite side of the Nautilus. From the plateau at the top of the climb its an easy walk there. This is also an easy way to toprope either of these climbs. There are no bolts left on these climbs and being slab climbs therefore unprotectable.

By molony
Feb 25, 2008

I agree with rob, it's a must for new trad climbers.

By Ben Jamin
Jun 15, 2009

I'm just curious as to why bolts were added to the top of this climb, yesterday June 14. There is a good place to build an anchor at the top of the climb.

By SW Marlatt
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 15, 2009

Were the bolts added on Sunday (7/14)? I had a group of scouts up there most of Saturday, and didn't see them...

Also - does the crack on the slab just to the right of Cornelius (left-arching line which joins Cornelius about 10 feet below the top) have a name? Short, but a fun little sequence of perfect hand jams.

swm

By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 15, 2009

First, whoever put bolts on this really needs an attitude adjustment. With a #6 friend. WTF. There is not a single reason for those to be there. The anchor is piss-easy to set, the walk off is of similar difficulty to the approach, and this hasn't needed bolts at any point in the 30+ years since it was originally climbed.

Second, the right variant doesn't have a name, so far as I'm aware of, but it goes at about 5.8 if you start from the ground and do the face below to get to the crack, rather than traversing in from the start of Cornelius.

By SW Marlatt
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 15, 2009

I completely agree about the attitude adjustment, and hope that someone will cleanly remove the bolts in the near future. As you say, it is ridiculously easy to build an anchor on top - with almost whatever rack you happen to be carrying (I think I used a couple stoppers and a mid-sized hex, but there are many, many, many choices.)

To whatever kind soul removes the bolts: please pull, rather than chop! That will keep the slap looking nice, and avoids leaving sharp nasties sticking out for novice climbers.

Per the right crack - I traversed in from the left, and that's harder than Cornelius, but much easier than 5.8. The crack itself is easy - 5.6 if Cornelius is 5.5. I didn't try the wall immediately below the right crack, but the face to the left (below Cornelius) seemed quite a bit harder than 5.8.

swm

By cory132
From: Torrance
Jul 27, 2009

This is a fun route that is a nice change when your whole body aches from all the offwidths nearby. It's a pity it isn't longer.