Tom wrestling an alligator at the start of Middle ...
Description
This line follows the wide crack (crux) up to a spacious ledge before chimneying behind the huge pillar. Chimney while jamming and protecting in the lovely handcrack. Surmise the difficulty of the line if the pillar were not present, then easily surmount the pillar for the first belay. For pitch two, step across the pillar back into the hand crack and ascend to a horizontal crack, pull the small roof via another crack to the right. Easier unprotect slab climbing gains the rappel anchor.
Protection
Standard rack up to 4 or 5 inches. Rappel anchor atop the 2nd pitch, as well as an anchor atop the huge flake.
Excellent climb. This is the wide crack to the right of Friday the 13th and then continues behind the pillar. Bring a #4 Camalot to protect the crux off sized crack at the start of the climb. The moves up the chimney are really the gem of this climb and the entire chimney is easily protected using a few hand-sized cams. There are chain anchors on the top of the pillar that you can rappel from if you are not interested in climbing the second pitch. The rappel is airy and fun too.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 7, 2002 rating: 5.9+
Don't skip the second pitch! It is part of the fun!
You can rap from the top of P2, over the pillar and all of the way to the bottom with a 70M rope. A 60M would leave you in a world of pain if you tried to do this in one rap.
A 60 meter rope got me to the ground in one rap from the top (but barely). You should be able to see your ends near the ground before you commit to this.
Vedauwoo Mega Classic. The exposure stepping off the pillar onto the second pitch is super sweet. If you only do the first pitch, you're missing out big time.
I did it in one pitch with rope drag, I ran out of long runners at the traversing top. I don't remember any problems with rock quality in the chimney. Overall, an awesome climb.
Nautilus
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