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Whipping Boy 

War Zone 

5.11b

   

FA: Sean Bradley
Type: Trad, Sport
Views: 348 page views

Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 16, 2001


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Cory Fleagle cruising the upper section of War Zon...


Description 

Another excellent line in the Friday the 13th area of the Nautilus. This line ascends the low angle face to the steeper headwall to the left of Friday the 13th and Deception. Climb up the interesting incipent cracks on the lower face before launching on the fun bolt protected face above. Good edges and crystals make for a thoughtful, balancy and stellar climb. As always the grade is debatable, perhaps soft at grade, particularly compared to Vedauwoo crack lines.


Protection 

Four bolts on upper headwall to a 2 bolt rappel anchor. This route requires supplemental gear to reach the upper bolted section, gear up to 2 inches. A small camming device (0 TCU or equivalent) is nice to protect the seam between the 3rd and 4th bolts.



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By Joe Collins
Jul 14, 2003

The climbing above the last bolt is the crux and borderline 'S'. At the very least there's big whipper potential.

By nolteboy
Jul 22, 2005

A Vedauwoo face climb that actually has good edges on it, this is a very worthwhile route. The last couple of moves really keep your attention!