Handjacker 

This was my first attempted lead at Vedauwoo as a beginning leader. We thought we were doing the "recommened" 5.6 Stinkzig. Bring some big bro's in the 2-3 size. A #4 Camalot will not cut it, as we found out that day. Luckly for us, some locals helped us retrive our gear. The climbing is easy until you get to the under cling flake on the left face, only good technique will get you to the top from there.

#2 and #3 Bigbros and a #5 Camalot will protect this one. It's quite a grunt, but short enough that it is still fun.

Or better yet, don your favorite pair of rollarskates and do it like they do at the "Fat Crack Festival." Best time with a pair of size 11 Rollerskates is 4 minutes flat.

I was once told by a local that the guidebook had errors at the right hand side of this cliff, and thus this 5.9 route had been misprinted as a 5.7. That may or may not be true, but more or less, they said that the book had all of the grades listed one-to-the-left of the respective route. Can anyone confirm this?

I think this one must be in the running for hardest 5.7 pitch in the universe

I was duped. I though I was on Stinkzig right side start. I left a good hunk of the skin on my right side on this Vedawound classic looking for that "good pro". Bring any and every big piece of gear you can, I didn't trust any of my two placements (one large hex and a fully expanded Metolius#10, both to small). The second pitch is great. look for good rap anchors to the right and down 50 to 60 feet, two ropes, also not mentioned in the guide.

We too were duped by the picture in the book and thought we were on Stinkzig. This is definitely a sandbag. I was able to protect it with a #11 Hex down low and #4 Camalot right before the bulge. That was all of the big gear that I had. A real grunt. Don't think I'd give it 3 stars and Stinkzig 1 star. I liked the upper pitch of Stinkzig better than this.

Great beginner Vedauwoo offwidth. This one is fun.

Bring a #5 Camalot and just walk it with you. As to the grade, yes it is 5.7+. I could get up the thing, ergo 5.7+. Watching all the champions do this in big green Incredible Hulk gloves was quite the entertainment.

Also, I used 1 #4 Camalot, two #4.5, and a #5 I walked with me most of the way. You can get good placements for all of those, deep in the crack, but its easier to climb the thing if you're not that deep in.

Funny how time fades your memory. I did this climb years ago and it lived up to its name. Hands were certainly jacked, quite pumpy and strenuous...going back on the 5th any takers??