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Piton Perch 

5.6

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 404 page views

Submitted By: Steve Levin on Aug 31, 2001


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BETA PHOTO: Piton Perch


Description 

I always think of an old climbing buddy from the Gunks- Rich Perch- when I think of this climb, although I don't think he had anything to do with it.

Located on the S side of the crag left of Lower Progressive, PP takes the obvious chimney line which ends right of the Parabolic Slabs overhanging side.

This climb is mostly easier chimneying and stemming (wide at points) that has a distinct crux at a chockstone.

The key to passing a chockstone in a chimney rests in your body position, which in turn depends upon how well you are using your lower body (feet, legs, etc.). By stemming or chimneying high, less reliance on pulling with the arms is required. On this climb, face holds and jams may help augment the pure stemming and chimneying techniques employed, but they should not overwhelm these methods. Climb methodically, in control, and be confident that each move is reversible, and each body position is secure.

Descend to the right, eventually locating some rap anchors.


Protection 

There are placements for varying sizes of gear, but overall expect some runout climbing.



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By Craig Quincy
Sep 4, 2003

I'd recommend bringing several long slings to help with protection [opportunities]. At the beginning I burrowed underneath the large chockstone and developed wicked rope drag. To cure the problem, I went off belay on top of the chockstone and pulled all the rope through and tossed it back to my belayer. Perhaps you're supposed to go on the other side of the intital chockstone to prevent these problems.

By nolteboy
Jun 23, 2005

Very good route. Moving past the chockstone on the outside is definitely the way to go, but I remember it being a bit spooky... Options for gear improve soon after that.

By Rob Dillon
From: Leadville, CO
Aug 15, 2005

160' to the Parabolic Slab anchors if you manage the rope well.